10 Sustainable Hosiery Brands to Keep Your Legs Warm
 

image from Organic Basics

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Where to Find Sustainable Tights & Stockings

Until we hit warmer weather and brave getting our legs out, we’re all still likely walking around in tights or stockings under our dresses and skirts. They see us through from fall to spring and are staples in our wardrobes, but how much do we really know about these undergarment base layers?

Known collectively as ‘hosiery’, tights and stockings (also pantyhose) have been around for much longer than you might think. As far back as the 9th century, legs were covered with bandages of material, often held in place with strands of gut. However, the introduction of synthetic yarns in the Twenties revolutionized the industry, with hosiery now sheerer than cotton and cheaper than silk.

Worn under clothes like dresses, skirts, shorts or even trousers, and can be used as a fashion accessory to add an extra element to an outfit or worn out of necessity for those of us living in colder climates! They come in a variety of different styles, from fishnet and patterned tights to sheer and back seamed. You'll likely see the word ‘denier’ in the product description of tights and stockings, this is used to describe the thickness of fiber. If you’re looking for thicker, warmer, and opaque tights, look for 40d+ or ‘high denier’ tights, but if you’re after something thinner or sheerer, opt for below 30d or ‘low denier’ tights. Bear in mind that the lower the denier, the weaker the fabric will be and may be more likely to rip or ladder.

What Makes Tights & Stockings Unsustainable?

In terms of garment waste, hosiery is one of the most disposable items in the industry. This is largely due to their mass production, mostly being cheaply made and with synthetic fibers. As many as 8 billion pairs of tights are made, worn a handful of times, and then discarded every year. Tights and stockings often ‘ladder’ or rip within a few uses and, with no widely available way of recycling them, are then thrown away and end up in landfills. If they’re made from synthetic materials, they won’t biodegrade but will break down into microplastics that pollute the soil, oceans, and aquatic life. 

The most commonly used materials for making tights and stockings are Nylon, Spandex, polyamide, cotton, and elastane Lycra. Apart from cotton, these are all synthetic fibers that are derived from non-renewable fossil fuels. To produce these synthetic fabrics is emission intensive, requires a cocktail of toxic chemicals, and is environmentally degrading. When we wash tights or stockings made with synthetic material, hundreds of thousands of microfibers (containing microplastics) are released into our water system and end up in our ocean system and food chain. 

How to Find Sustainable Hosiery?

When searching for sustainable tights and stockings, there are a few things you can do to ensure you’re picking an eco-friendly product. Most importantly, you can opt for more sustainable materials like traceable natural fibers such as bamboo, organic cotton, or recycled synthetics like ECONYL®, Nylon, or polyamide, or even leftovers from other companies' production processes (referred to as ‘deadstock’ materials).

With hosiery it’s crucial that longevity has been considered in the product design. This means the brand has included features that help the garment last as long as possible and protect it from being easily damaged. Look for features like reinforced toes that help prevent ripping or a wide waistband that stops the tights from rolling. 

You should also consider if the brand has wider sustainability initiatives or certifications that make their hosiery ethical as well as sustainable. Do they ensure a living wage for their garment workers? Do they use renewable energy in their factories? Can you see where they’ve sourced their materials from? These are all questions that you should be able to find answers to on the brand’s website. 

One element of sustainable hosiery is down to you. The aftercare of any garment is just as important as how it was made, and looking after your tights or stockings can help them last much longer. Check the washing and drying guidance from the brand, and if they’re made with synthetic fibers, you can use a Guppyfriend or similar bag to catch any microplastics that are released during the wash.

Now, Our Top Picks for Eco-Friendly Tights & Stockings

1) CLOECO

Materials: Tencel

Price: $19-32

These natural tights made from Tencel are comfier for your body and easier on the environment. CLOECO tights are naturally durable, luxuriously soft and anti-itch. They also have a 30 days risk-free trial and free shipping. Plus, how cool is it that women scientists and engineers founded CLOECO?! This definitely gives us more confidence in what we put on our bodies.


2) Underprotection

Materials: Recycled Polyamide

Price: $15-22

Underprotection has a range of five sustainable tights made with soft, recycled polyamide in 25 – 45 denier.

Their tights have a soft waist elastic and light to medium support, depending on the style. Underprotection is also a certified B Corp


3) Swedish Stockings

Materials: Recycled Polyamide, Organic Cotton, Organic Wool

Price: $30-62

Knitted from recycled yarn in their zero-waste, 100% emission-free facility, Swedish Stockings tights are ideal for sustainable hosiery. These tights have been designed to last with a wide comfort waistband and toe reinforcements! They also have a recycling program where you can send back three old pairs of stockings for 10% off your next purchase.


4) Sezane

Materials: Recycled Polyamide, Recycled Elastane

Price: $20

Sezane’s tights come in black, charcoal, and black polka dots and range from 40 – 80 denier. The tights are made with recycled Polyamide and recycled elastane, and their pieces are certified by 5 of the industry’s most reliable certifications: GOTS, Oeko-Tex, FSC, RWS and RMS.

Sezane has also recently become a certified B Corp!


5) Thought

Materials: Bamboo, Recycled Nylon

Price: $19

Thought has a range of well-made tights created with bamboo that feels luxurious on your skin, and the thick yarn is just the right amount of opaque. They also have a range of tights made from recycled nylon, helping to divert waste from landfill. Available in black, grey, navy, sage green, and toffee brown, Thought has the perfect pair of tights for any outfit. 


6) Organic Basics

Materials: Recycled Nylon

Price: on sale $24-27 for 2-pack

Organic Basics are well known for their premium basics and underwear, but did you know they also make tights? Made with GRS certified recycled nylon, their tights are 3D knitted, ladder-resistant and feature toe reinforcements for durability. Compared to using virgin nylon and traditional practices, these tights will save 3.5kg of CO2 emissions and 52 liters of water!


7)  Seasalt Cornwall

Materials: Organic Cotton, Bamboo, Recycled Nylon

Price: $32

UK-based brand Seasalt Cornwall offers a range of tights in rich colors inspired by the landscapes of the coastal country of Cornwall. Choose from the breathable bamboo or organic cotton tights or recycled ones made from repurposed nylon. They have gentle elastic tops for comfort, with sizes ranging from Small to XXL. 


8) Heist

Materials: Recycled Polyamide, Recycled Elastane

Price: $14-41

Heist’s latest collection of tights are made with soft, recycled yarn from materials including polyamide and elastane. Choose from four styles: the Geometric, the Fine Line, the Over-Knee, and the Cut-Off footless tights. Heist has removed the gusset from these tights to reduce sagging when worn and feature a waistband that doesn’t dig or roll, perfect for all-day comfort!


9) Pretty Polly

Materials: Biodegradable Polyamide

Price: $18-30

Are these the world’s first biodegradable tights?

The Eco-Wear collection by Pretty Polly features a range of hosiery, seam-free underwear and leggings made from the first biodegradable polyamide in the world. The tights feature a reinforced body, flat seams, cotton gusset and lightly reinforced toe.


10)  Dear Denier

Materials: Recycled Polyamide, Recycled Elastane

Price: $20-43

Dear Denier specializes in sustainable and innovative hosiery, and the production of their tights is emission-free and zero-waste. With air vents and a light control top, these tights are so comfortable you’ll forget you’re wearing them. Vegan? Check out their range of vegan hosiery that is certified by PETA! Dear Denier also has a recycling initiative where you can save your tights from landfills and receive a 10% discount code.


About the Author

Sarah is a freelance writer with a focus on vegan fashion, sustainability and ethically made clothes. She campaigns for change in the fashion industry through her blog and on her Instagram page.


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Sustainable Self-Care Ideas for 2023
 

At the end of the year, people sometimes begrudgingly put together their new year's resolutions list, then spend the next few months trying to fit them into their lives and not drop them altogether. 

Many of us have a love-hate relationship with new year's resolutions. They can be a fun way to refresh our life and routine, but on the flip side, they can make us feel the pressure to constantly improve ourselves even more, especially if we end up giving up on our new year’s goals.

Whether you fill your calendar with new goals and activities for the new year or you are playing it by ear, one thing we should all do is give ourselves some love, compassion, and self-care time. Here we have selected some sustainable, self-care ideas to help you enjoy well-deserved treats and me-time year-round. Enjoy yourself! 

Use your special occasion items whenever you want to elevate your day

Many of us own fancy household items like glasses, plates, and mugs we bring out exclusively on special occasions, holidays, and birthdays. They make those days feel extra significant, and there is something just so comforting about creating little household traditions that mark important events and celebrations. 

Despite the name, we can bring these special occasion items out whenever we need an extra touch of prettiness in our lives without depriving them of their specialness. Having them around on a dull or rough day can be an easy and budget-friendly way to pamper yourself and add some special occasion magic to your routine. 

So bring out your favorite fancy occasion glasses to make a regular day feel special and celebrate yourself, what you are grateful for, and the people you love. 

Experiment with a fun new drink

Nothing is better than curling up with a cozy drink in the colder months and sipping something chilled and refreshing when it's hot outside. If you agree, try experimenting with a new homemade drink to spice things up and give yourself some well-deserved culinary self-care.  

You can make it as low-effort or as elaborate as you want it. Just browse your kitchen & cocktail bar to see what suits your mood. Don't worry if you are not much of a barista or bartender. In this lovely pursuit, the internet can come to your aid and provide you with thousands of fun recipes to your taste that you can try recreating at home. 

Take care of your houseplants

Bringing some nature into your home in the form of houseplants is such an effortless way of decorating your house, adding a lovely and calming pop of color to your space, and of course, an act of self-care. 

But taking care of them can also be a way of taking care of yourself. It's the perfect opportunity to relax and focus on a soothing manual chore that will ensure your plants stay healthy and beautiful. Self-care win-win!   

Though houseplants may require varying levels of care, which can feel intimidating, there is nothing to be afraid of: with a bit of research, you can quickly figure out what your plants need to thrive. So take some time to slow down, unwind and enjoy this relaxing and rewarding at home-activity.  

Visit your local library

Reading is an excellent form of self-care. What's not to love about losing yourself in a good story, exploring new worlds, and following the characters in their adventures? Searching through the book-filled shelves for your next read is a lovely experience in and of itself.

To enjoy both these activities, you can plan a visit to your local library. They might seem like stuffy, boring places at first glance, but a library it's not just where a bunch of books is stored and cataloged; it's a dynamic space that connects the community it serves. You can support these remarkable places by visiting your local library and enjoying some me-time and self-care reading there. 

Give loose-leaf tea a try

Whether you take it iced or piping hot, tea is always the easiest way to treat yourself to a little break. You could try its loose-leaf version to make its preparation a more memorable experience, cut down on waste, and enjoy tastier tea. You can find it in specialized shops along with the infuser you need to prepare it. Switching to loose-leaf tea is an effortless way to elevate your day and invest a little extra time into slowing down and enjoying the little things. 

Make your own flavored water  

There are so many perks to making your flavored water yourself. Not only is this drink so easy to make at home, but the homemade version is also cheaper, can easily be made plastic-free, and tastes way nicer. 

All you need to do to make your flavored water at home is pick and combine some fresh and fragrant ingredients of your choice (think herbs, citruses, and fruit) in a pitcher or glass carafe and let that refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours before staining it. 

Tailor your pieces

Feeling your best in the clothes you wear is such a lovely feeling. But sometimes, because of a poor sizing chart or perfectly normal changes in our body, our pieces don't fit as nicely as they could. 

Taking time to visit a tailor shop or fixing your clothes yourself can be a great way to invest in your present and future comfort and confidence. P.S. Remember, your clothes are supposed to fit you, not the other way around. 

Buy original art

The power of art is unmatched when it comes to making a house feel like our home. That's why getting new original artwork for your place is such a fun activity and the easiest way to spruce up your space and make it feel distinctive and fresh. 

So plan a self-care artsy day and take yourself on a visit to your local art shops and support local artists. Alternatively, you can shop digitally from your favorite artists worldwide. It's a great way to help indie makers and make your everyday life prettier. 

Learn how to grow your own herbs

Gardening is a notoriously relaxing activity, though, of course, it is not accessible to everybody. But by growing herbs, even city-dwellers can enjoy the experience of growing their food at home. 

Depending on your time, location, and taste, some herbs will be more suitable than others for your house. So pick what works better for you, enjoy the satisfaction of growing some tasty greens, and use them to add some freshness and refinement to your homemade meals. 

image: Rent the Runway

Rent fancy clothes

Wearing the right pieces with a nice texture, colors, and cut can make us feel like a million bucks. That's why experimenting with fashion can be a terrific pick-me-up. 

Treating yourself with fashion, though, doesn't necessarily mean giving in to retail therapy. You can still get that thrill of novelty by experimenting and re-falling in love with the clothes and accessories you already own. But if you feel like going for something new and fancy, renting clothes is a wonderfully sustainable and budget-friendly option.     

This way, you can get out of your fashion comfort zone and enjoy higher-hand, dressier pieces without the commitment of actually buying them new. Many online companies offer this kind of service, which helps you learn your personal style and make better purchases in the future too.     

Check out our post on all of our favorite places to Rent Clothing Online.

Go on a nature walk

Technology offers us a treasure trove of enjoyable ways to pass the time and soothe a tired heart, like re-watching your favorite movie or connecting with like-minded people. But spending time in nature can be a great act of self-care too. Whether you walk by a sandy beach or under the trees in a mountain forest, taking a break and going for a stroll in nature is a real treat for the mind, body, and soul.

Science confirms what many of us innately feel, as exposure to nature has been associated with many benefits, including improving performance on cognitively demanding tasks.

So, weather permitting, whenever you need a self-care session, try giving a nature-based pick-me-up a shot and immerse in your local outdoors.  

Find or create the perfect everyday-playlist

Music is the ultimate form of self-care. It's free, relaxing, and energizing, and you can listen to it everywhere and any time these days. You can find or create the perfect everyday playlist to make listening to music an even better self-care experience. 

Regardless of your favorite genres, you can find excellent, curated playlists on Spotify or create one that will boost your mood daily. This prep will make duller everyday tasks and activities like your commute to work much more enjoyable. 

Learn about your local flora and fauna

Sometimes all we need to relax is to do something mindless and comforting, like making and enjoying a sweet treat. Other times, we want something that engages our brain a bit more.

Learning about your local flora and fauna can scratch that itch just right, and it makes for a fun and bookish light-hearted self-care activity. Every area worldwide has unique flora and fauna that many of us might not know so well. Learning more about it by actively spending time in nature or through books and on the internet can be a relaxing way to get to know our town and region better, connect with nature and the seasons, and learn something new. 


About the Author:

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


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4 Sustainable and Eco-Friendly Medical Scrubs for the Health Professional
 

image from Barco One

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliated, so we may earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. We only add brands & products we truly believe in.

Eco-Friendly Medical Scrubs

Do you work in the health field and have to wear scrubs daily? Years ago, I wrote a blog post about an eco-friendly scrubs brand, and it is still a very popular post. So, Why not look further into more sustainable medical scrubs since it seems to be something people want? I did some research and came back with these 4, which is a great start. Not only are these fabrics more breathable, but they are also kinder to the planet.

Let me know in the comments if you have happened to find another sustainable medical scrubs brand - I’d love to be able to add them to this list!

p.s. even though these are all photos of women, they also have scrubs for men!

Lago

Price | $32-46

Lago offers functional, stylish, comfortable scrubs that are better for the planet.

Their fabrics are made from recycled plastic bottles and have a 4-way stretch and performance capabilities.

All scrubs are responsibly made, and the packaging is even eco-friendly!

They also believe in diversity, with their team being made up of 50% women and 60% people of color.


Barco One

Price | $17-45

This brand seems to be a favorite amongst health professionals. Barco One uses recycled polyester in their scrubs, a great way to reduce our virgin poly threads.

Just wash with a guppy bag to prevent micro plastics from entering the waterways.

Besides their fashion-forward tops and vests, Barco One offers a large assortment of scrub pants, like 7-pocket options that allow you to easily store your instruments & track pants, blending comfort with a professional appearance.


Mediclo

Price | $39-59

I love that this brand uses Tencel for its fabric! It is one of my favorite textiles and is so comfortable to wear. I can imagine these being one of the best medical scrubs on the market with such a great fiber.

Not only do they use eco-friendly materials, but they produce ethically with fair wages and safe working conditions.

They also offer direct-to-consumer so that you can purchase a quality product at a more affordable price.


Sketchers

Price | $15-37

Well, I was utterly unaware that Sketchers made medical scrubs, & with a conscious fabric at that!

They use recycled polyester and provide trendy, sporty scrubs for nurses and other medical professionals who are constantly on the go.

The scrubs are made with elastic waistbands, moisture-wicking fabric, pockets, cargo pockets, side slits, snap fronts, & contrast binding to ensure a great all-day fit.


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The Human Cost of Conventional Leather
 

The Human Cost of Conventional Leather

There’s a lot of discussion about the environmental issues associated with producing leather, and whether or not we acknowledge it, we know that leather is the skin of slaughtered animals. Less attention is given to the plight of humans in many leather supply chains, who too often are exploited and harmed. 

Collective Fashion Justice’s report series, ‘Under their skin’, opened with its first edition, ‘leather’s impact on people’. From Indigenous land rights issues wrapped up with deforestation for cattle rearing in leather supply chains to health issues faced by exploited tannery workers, forced labour on some cattle ranches as well as both psychological and physical harm facing slaughterhouse workers, there’s a lot to unpack. And that’s before we talk about environmental racism tied to pollution coming from slaughterhouses and tanneries. So let’s trace a conventional leather supply chain, and explore what’s happening to people both in and surrounding them:

Illustration Credit: Inma Hortas / Under Their Skin

Leather, deforestation and Indigenous land rights

Raising cattle for both meat and leather is extremely land intensive. In fact, while some industry advertising tells us that free-range, pasture systems are more sustainable, these systems require more land and so contribute to greater degradation and biodiversity destruction. Cattle rearing is responsible for 80% of deforestation in the Amazon, in Brazil, one of the leading leather producing countries in the world. In fact, raising cattle for production eats up more land than any other human activity across the globe.

Clearly, deforestation and the loss of natural environments is bad for the planet. But what’s it got to do with people? In Brazil, the leather industry has been complicit in deforesting stolen Indigenous land, harming the Karipuna, Uru-Eu-Wau-Wau, Rio Ouro Preto, Rio Jacy-Paraná and Piripkura peoples

Harming native lands harms the people who belong to that land. As Waorani warrior and leader Nemonte Nenquimo said, “The Amazon rainforest is my home… the land grabbers are cutting down primary forest so that the cattle can graze… When you say that you are urgently looking for climate solutions, yet continue to build a world economy based on extraction and pollution, we know you are lying because we are the closest to the land, and the first to hear her cries… The Earth does not expect you to save her, she expects you to respect her. And we, as Indigenous peoples, expect the same.”

But, as the report notes, this problem is not exclusive to Brazil and Brazilian leather supply chains: across Paraguay, Bolivia, Argentina, the United States and Australia, these industries have and continue to rob Indigenous communities of their land, violating international human rights law. 

Unfortunately, even the Leather Working Group certification, considered the ‘best’ in the industry, still permits deforestation for leather. Leather supply chains can be very difficult to trace, making this a problem many brands are unable to begin solving. Leather, like viscose and other wood cellulose fibres are high risk for deforestation and associated human rights violations, so we need to be very wary of them. 

Illustration Credit: Inma Hortas / Under Their Skin

Farm workers

‘Tier four’ of fashion supply chains is where raw materials are produced. In the case of plant and animal-derived materials, that means farms. Cattle farms and ranches are very difficult to trace. In fact, Fashion Revoltuon’s 2022 Fashion Transparency Index, which investigated the 250 largest brands and retailers in the industry, found that just 12% of these fashion companies disclosed where they source their raw materials. This lack of transparency is a real problem, because exploitation runs rife in hiding. 

Cattle farms in leather supply chains unfortunately can, like with other farms in fashion supply chains, be run with exploitative and even forced labour. Forced labour, unjust payment and the exploitation of workers has been documented on cattle farms across Brazil, the United States, Australia, Paraguay, Vietnam and a number of other countries. JBS, the company which owns a huge portion of the world’s slaughterhouses and tanneries, has been ‘confirmed to source cattle from supplier farms that made use of workers kept in slavery-like conditions’. 

Too, working on a cattle farm supplying fashion brands can cause some workers serious mental distress. Routine and legal practices on cattle farms include cutting or burning off the budding horns of calves without pain relief, as well as other painful mutilation practices, in some instances including searing hot branding. Wouldn’t want to do this to cows? You’re not alone: “here I have to switch my love for animals a bit off, you have to if you work here”, and “you should not feel bad for them. If you have a thought about that you can’t be in the industry, you can’t feel bad for them, you just can’t”. These are the words of two workers on free-range cattle stations

Fashion brands working to reduce the suffering of cows on farms implement policies which demand pain relief for mutilation practices, but with such little transparency across all farms in the leather supply chain (often numerous farms are involved in one supply chain, thanks to the use of ‘background’ and ‘breeder’ farms), it can be difficult for these policies to have a real impact. Without traceability, it’s very challenging for fashion brands to make change, or know they need to. 

While some farms fortunately don’t carry out these cruel procedures without pain relief, in every leather supply chain, cattle are sent to be killed. For Jay Wilde, who ran a small-scale farm before a change of heart, sending cows he had grown to care for to their slaughter was “soul destroying”, and felt like playing a “dirty trick”. 

Illustration Credit: Inma Hortas / Under Their Skin

Slaughterhouse workers

These mental health impacts for workers in leather supply chains only worsen in slaughterhouses. We don’t often think of abattoirs as a part of the fashion industry, but the valuable co-product of leather could not exist without them. 

Slaughterhouse workers are more likely to suffer with something called perpetration-induced traumatic stress. This is similar to PTSD, but with one major difference: PITS is brought about by causing significant trauma to someone else, and feeling trauma yourself as a result. As with PTSD, symptoms include anxiety, panic, depression, paranoia, a sense of disintegration and dissociation, amongst other symptoms Yale researchers referred to as ‘the psychological consequences of the act of killing’. 

This violence only spreads further, as research has suggested that communities surrounding slaughterhouses can face increased rates of violent crime, considered a ‘spillover’ in the psyche of workers paid to kill for a living. 

Slaughterhouse line speeds are also increasing in many places around the world, increasing already seriously high risks of physical injury. Did you know that Human Rights Watch once referred to the factory job as the most dangerous in the United States? 

While speed rates can be reduced, safer equipment can be used and training can help to reduce injuries, the psychological aspects of slaughterhouse work are inherent to the job, and unable to be avoided in leather production. 

Illustration Credit: Inma Hortas / Under Their Skin

Tannery workers

Perhaps most commonly thought of when we think about the people who make leather are tannery workers. China and India transform more skins into leather through tanning than any other country, with many skins both produced onshore and imported into these nations for processing. 

In both of these countries, serious health hazards and exploitation are faced by workers and those living nearby tanneries. In China, the environmental pollution surrounding some industrial areas with tanneries is so bad that even the local government have referred to these places as ‘cancer villages’. In India too, as much as 40 million litres of untreated tannery wastewater full of carcinogenic substances like chromium and formaldehyde are dumped into the Ganga River. Every single day. This waterway is considered sacred by local people, who rely on it to live. 

Inside these tanneries, poor payment and child labour have been documented. Too, peer-reviewed, global studies have shown that workers face far higher risks of developing diseases including lung cancer, pancreatic cancer, skin cancer, kidney cancer, bladder cancer and soft tissue sarcoma, to name a few. 

While these problems are exceptionally bad in areas with less economic advantage, as a result of both environmental racism (where wealthier countries export their more environmentally destructive and health harming industries to poorer, normally non-white areas) and outdated infrastructure, many issues persist in wealthier nations. 

The ‘Made in Italy’ label evokes images of luxury in many of our minds, but a report funded by the European Commission shows a different story: tannery workers in the country exploit migrant workers who also face serious health risks due to their exposure to toxic chemicals. Too, these workers are often denied fair, living wages, while also being offered unjust working contracts which leave them vulnerable to exploitation. One tannery worker quoted in the report, said “we’re like lemons, they squeeze us and then throw us away”, while another, who spoke anonymously, said “you’re practically a salve – they say – if one week you complain or mess up, they send you away, they have you by the throat”. 

Again, the Leather Working Group certification fails to protect tannery workers from this kind of exploitation, despite being promoted by brands as assuring ‘responsible’ and ‘ethical’ leather. There are a number of brands that ensure safer and more fair working standards for tannery workers, and this is deeply important. There are also tanneries which better manage the chemical substances used in the process, better protecting surrounding communities from pollution. 

Illustration Credit: Inma Hortas / Under Their Skin

Garment workers 

Finally, once skins are fully transformed into leather, they are made into jackets, shoes, bags and other accessories. Here is where we meet garment workers. Whether clothes are being made from leather, an animal free alternative to it, cotton, polyester or any other material, the vast majority of people who make our clothes are not paid fairly or treated with respect.

Some estimates suggest that just 2% of garment workers are paid a living wage, with the rest receiving ‘poverty pay’ so minimal they are unable to afford all of their basic necessities. While we expect this from fast fashion brands selling clothing so cheap it would be impossible to pay everyone involved in making them properly, unjust payment occurs in luxury fashion, too. In fact, luxury brands such as Burberry and Chloé have faced legal trouble in the past, when it was found that their expensive leather bags were being made in Italian sweatshops. People working to make products for the brands were being paid less than $3.5USD each hour – for bags worth over a thousand dollars, if not more, in some cases. 

The fashion industry as a whole will never overcome these issues unless it recognises that dignity and life must be prioritised before profit. While there is promising improvement, and plenty of brands working to make clothes more ethically, there’s also a whole lot of room for major improvement. 

More ethical and sustainable alternatives to leather 

Some of the human exploitation found in leather supply chains can certainly be avoided, and every person deserves safe and fair work, no matter what work they are involved in. 

Not all cattle farms used forced labour, there are tanneries which provide proper safety gear to the people working with dangerous substances, and leather which does not come from deforested land which contribute to the forced displacement of Indigenous communities. Every reduction of suffering is an improvement to be pleased about, however, some of the issues wrapped up in leather production cannot be avoided. 

Even when putting aside the harm to animals, or the environmental impacts of leather, the trauma associated with transforming animals into materials is largely inseparable from the process. These are not small or insignificant issues, and if you’re looking to avoid contributing to them, there are plenty of great alternatives to leather available!

Look out for more sustainable alternatives to leather, like recycled materials, 100% biodegradable and natural MIRUMAppleSkin, Desserto, Piñatex, VEGEA and other options made from a blend of plant-based and synthetic materials, as well as totally natural choices like cork and washable paper. 


About the Author
Emma Håkansson is the founder and director of Collective Fashion Justice which seeks to create a total ethics fashion system that prioritizes the life and wellbeing of non-human & human animals, as well as the planet, before profit & production. She has written countless articles on ethics, sustainability, and fashion, and has two books due out over the next two years.


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Silk: How Ethical And Sustainable Is It? (& Better Alternatives To Choose Instead)
 

How Sustainable Is Silk? & Its Ethical Alternatives

Silk has been a highly demanded fabric for more than 5,000 years. It is delicate, lustrous and beautiful, and makes the perfect fabric for scarves, blouses and dresses.

legend says that silk was discovered in 2640 BC by Chinese Empress Xi Ling Shi while drinking a cup of tea under a mulberry tree. A silkworm cocoon fell into her cup and, as it dissolved, the Empress understood that the cocoon was made of beautiful threads that could be used to create fine fabrics.  

Silk has been produced since then, mainly in Asia, but sericulture became popular in the whole world as the centuries passed. Today, silk production accounts for less than 0.2% of the world’s fiber market, but it is a multi-billion dollar industry. ‘

Silk has unique properties, but it raises various ethical and sustainable issues. It’s also one of the most expensive fabrics, and owning silk clothing requires constant dry-cleaning. 

So, should you invest in silk fabrics for your wardrobe? You’ll find out in this article! You’ll also learn about some more ethical and sustainable alternatives to choose instead.

WHAT IS SILK AND HOW IS IT MADE?

What is silk?

Silk is a natural fiber created by certain insects and arachnids to form their cocoons or webs, and it can be used to produce textiles.

In commercial applications, the most common silk is made with the filaments from the cocoons of the larvae of domesticated mulberry silkworms Bombyx mori. The silkworms are reared in captivity to create fabrics: this whole industry is called sericulture.

The production of silk is believed to have started in China during the Neolithic period, and it had played an essential role in the Chinese rural economy for millennia. 

In the 2nd century AD, the practice was established in India, and as centuries passed, sericulture was exported to other parts of the world, especially the Middle East. Thanks to the Silk Road, it quickly reached the Mediterranean, and later, Western Europe where it flourished until the 19th century.

After the Second World War, nylon and other synthetic fabrics became popular and widely produced in the fashion industry, leading to the weakening of the silk industry. But silk did not disappear.

Nowadays, silk is used in various industries, the most common one being fashion. You can buy many clothing pieces made with silk, including blouses, shirts, lingerie, dresses and pajamas. Silk can also be found in home textiles like bedding, duvets, curtains and rugs.

It has many other industrial and commercial applications, and it’s used to make parachutes, bicycle tires and surgical sutures to name a few. 

China is still by far the main silk producer, with around 60% of the world’s production.

How is it made?

Sericulture has existed for thousands of years, but it’s still a very labor-intensive process. 

Silk production almost always involves rearing silkworms in captivity, and we usually use domesticated mulberry silkworms Bombyx mori.  

It is possible to produce wild silk, using silkworms that live in the wild, like the tussah silkmoths. However, this type of production is a lot less predictable and more difficult, because the silk moths that are used cannot be domesticated.

The first step in the production process of conventional silk is to gather thousands of silkworms to harvest their cocoons. Female silk moths have around 300 to 500 eggs at once, and those eggs are incubated in a controlled environment until they become larvae.

Larvae are fed with mulberry leaves, and after six weeks, silkworms start spinning their cocoon by rotating their bodies around 300,000 times.  

A silkworm needs three to eight days to create a single strand of silk that measures about 100 meters long. Around 2,500 silkworms are needed to create one pound of raw silk.

When all the silkworms have finished spinning their cocoons, silk producers place the cocoons in boiling water to dissolve the gum holding the cocoon together, killing the silkworm in the process. Each silk thread is then slowly reeled from the cocoon in individual threads and wound on a reel.

After being washed, degummed, bleached, and dried, silk threads are immersed in a dye bath to soak up a given color. Dyed silk threads are then spun onto a bobbin, and the weaving process can begin.

Two sets of threads are interlaced so that they lock around each other to form a durable fabric. Silk can be woven in various ways, which results in different finishes of the silk.

At this point, a pattern can be printed on the fabric, either using digital printing, or the more traditional screen printing method. 

Finally, the silk fabric needs to be finished, which is usually done by using different chemical treatments that give the fabric specific properties, like crease-proofing and fire resistance. 

The silk fabric can then be sewn and used to create all kinds of new products, including fashion pieces.

SHOULD YOU USE SILK?

How practical is silk clothing?

Silk has unique properties…

This fabric is lightweight and lustrous, and it has a soft feel. Its luminosity and sheen make it look luxurious, and it falls naturally, which is ideal for creating elegant clothing. 

Silk is also a great material that takes well to dyes, meaning that you can usually find all kinds of colors when looking for silk clothing. In addition, it is very strong and doesn’t get damaged easily: one filament of silk is stronger than a comparable filament of steel

Silk clothes are great to wear in the summer, as they keep you cool and can absorb a lot of moisture before feeling wet. In the winter, silk helps keep warm air close to the skin, making it a warm material that’s often used for its insulation properties. 

All these great characteristics have made it a very demanded fabric throughout the world.  

But it comes with its disadvantages…

One of the most significant disadvantages of silk is that it is more expensive than most other fabrics. As a result, silk clothes are often seen as a luxury that many people cannot afford. 

It is also more challenging to take proper care of silk fabrics as it is recommended to dry-clean them. You might hand wash them, but you should first test for a color bleed on a small area on the inside. 

Silk clothing shouldn’t go in the washing machine nor the dryer, which is inconvenient for many people. It also needs to be steam-ironed, but only on a low setting, and you shouldn’t put it in direct sunlight as it can fade easily. 

If you aren’t careful with these recommendations, you risk damaging your silk fabrics. 

How eco-friendly is silk?

The main environmental benefit of silk is that it is a durable, natural material, so it doesn’t shed microplastics into the environment while in the wash. 

Untreated silk is also entirely biodegradable, even though chemicals, dyes and blended fabrics may hinder its biodegradability.

However, according to the Sustainable Apparel Coalition’s Higg Index, silk has a worse environmental impact than synthetic fabrics, and it has a huge global warming potential. 

As a single mulberry tree feeds 100 silkworms, and we need 3,000 cocoons to create one yard of fabric, sericulture involves growing a huge quantity of mulberry trees. Even though fewer chemicals are sprayed on mulberry trees than other crops, like cotton, pesticides and fertilizers are usually used to grow them. 

It contributes to the pollution of groundwaters and may cause serious environmental issues, such as eutrophication. Eutrophication leads to the spread of harmful algae in the environment and usually causes dead zones.

Silk production is also very energy and water-intensive. Boiling the water to cook the cocoons takes enormous amounts of energy and water. Temperature control in silkworm rearing facilities, transportation, dying and processing are other steps in the production process that require large amounts of energy. In addition, the silk is cleaned at different stages, which means that high volumes of water are used.

A lot of toxic chemicals, including dyes, are usually used during silk production, and untreated waters are regularly dumped into waterways.

Owning silk itself can be unsustainable as it requires dry cleaning, and dry cleaning solvents are very harmful to the environment.

How ethical is it? 

One of the main reasons why sericulture is widely criticized is because it raises different ethical issues.

Conventional silk production involves boiling alive and killing the silkworms in their cocoons before they mature into moths. It is estimated that around 1,000 animals are killed to create a single silk shirt. Only a small percentage are allowed to mature, and they are used for reproduction purposes. 

Once silkworms have mated, males are discarded, and females are crushed to death. Female silkworms are then checked under a microscope to make sure they are not sick. If a disease is detected, their eggs are destroyed as well. 

Another ethical issue is that child labor is not uncommon in the silk industry. In 2003, the non-profit organization Human Rights Watch found that hundreds of thousands of children in India were working 12 or more hours per day, six to seven days a week. Some were as young as five years old! 

Those children breathe toxic fumes and smoke daily, regularly have to dip their hands in boiling water, and are in contact with dead worms that can cause infections. They can easily get injured by other activities, cannot go to school, and are often beaten by their employers. There is no evidence that such practices have stopped since 2003.

Workers in the silk industry are also exposed to the chemicals that they are touching and breathing on a daily basis, at multiple stages during the production process. Those chemicals are very harmful to their health: they are linked to various diseases and deaths, and some of them are carcinogens. 

A final point to consider is that almost all workers in the silk industry are located in low-income countries where workers are regularly exploited, paid unfair wages that aren’t enough to live, and offered inhumane working conditions. 

MORE ETHICAL OR SUSTAINABLE ALTERNATIVES TO CONVENTIONAL SILK

Conventional silk production is not ethical nor sustainable. However, there are alternative ways to produce silk that are greener and more ethical and that you might prefer instead of buying conventional silk. 

Peace silk

Peace silk, or Ahimsa silk, is the most common alternative to conventional silk. The main reason why this type of silk is "more ethical" is that moths are allowed to emerge and fly away before their cocoons are boiled safely. It means that no moth is boiled alive during the production process.

While peace silk is better than conventional silk, it still has a significant drawback to be aware of. After thousands of years of selective breeding, domesticated silkworms used in silk production are not "made" to live out of their cocoons

They are unable to see and fly properly and cannot protect themselves from predators. As a result, they usually die quickly once they emerge from their cocoons. 

So peace silk production is less cruel than conventional silk production, but it is still not ideal. It is also not much better in terms of environmental footprint.  

Wild silk

Wild silk, or Tussar silk, is made from the cocoons of Tussar silkworms found in open forests. Their cocoons are usually harvested after the moths have emerged, making it a more ethical alternative to conventional silk.   

Wild silkworms eat multiple types of plants, so they produce a less consistent fabric, but it's more durable. Fewer chemicals are also used to make the fabric.

However, some companies that use "wild silk" harvest the cocoons with the larvae still inside. So, while wild silk is supposed to be better for the silkworms, it is difficult to say whether all companies producing wild silk are truly waiting for silkworms to hatch and fly away. 

Oeko-Tex or GOTS-certified organic silk

GOTS-certified organic silk is a more sustainable alternative to conventional silk. It is produced very similarly to conventional silk, but no pesticides or other harmful chemicals are used. 

Everything in the production process is organic, and the silkworms get to eat a more varied diet instead of mulberry leaves alone. 

Oeko-tex certified silk is another more sustainable option. It means that from raw materials to the end product, the silk is free of toxic chemicals, healthy and better for the environment.  

However, whether you choose to buy Oeko-Tex or GOTS-certified silk, the silkworms are still killed before they have the chance to leave their cocoons. So organic silk is more eco-friendly but no more ethical than conventional silk. 

Recycled silk

You cannot go wrong by choosing recycled silk! Used silk fabrics have been reused and recycled into new ones, and it is done without the ethical and sustainable issues of producing virgin silk. No additional silkworm is killed, and recycling a fabric also requires fewer resources to be used. 

Vegan silk alternatives 

If you're not comfortable wearing clothing made from animals, there are some vegan silk-like fabrics you may want to try. 

Lotus silk is one of them: it is made by spinning the long roots of the lotus flower. Lotus plants are grown without pesticides and require very little water. 

Other silk-like fabrics you can find are pineapple silk and banana silk. Both are made as a by-product of the fruit industry, so they're very sustainable fabrics, saving waste and resources. 

Cactus silk is not to be ignored too! It is made using a subspecies of succulents that need very little water and no chemicals to grow. 

The brand Bolt Threads also created "spider" silk. However, it is not made using spiders but by fermenting yeast, water and sugar, and it's very similar to real spider silk.

All these vegan alternatives are great options, and they're a lot more sustainable and ethical than conventional silk!  

CONCLUSION

Thanks to its various characteristics, silk has been a highly demanded fabric for thousands of years.

However, conventional silk is not made ethically as it requires boiling live silkworms while still in their cocoons, and child labor is not uncommon in this industry. 

It's also not sustainable because sericulture is very energy and water-intensive, and a lot of chemicals are added to the fabric. 

Fortunately, there are more ethical or eco-friendly alternatives to conventional silk. They're not all perfect in terms of ethics or sustainability, but they're still better. 

Recycled silk and vegan silk-like alternatives might be the most sustainable and ethical options.


About the Author:

Eva Astoul is a French freelance writer, specializing in content related to sustainability, simple living, and a growth-focused healthy lifestyle. She runs her own blog, Green With Less, to inspire people to live a more minimalist and sustainable life.


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WANT MORE SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? VISIT OUR BRAND DIRECTORY!

Our Brand Directory is home to hundreds of sustainable brands, from makeup to cleaning supplies, from underwear to shoes. We have broken everything down by category for easy shopping, along with discount codes unique to Sustainably Chic viewers.


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