You’ve probably seen the OEKO-TEX® label before; it’s commonly found on things like towels, bedsheets, and clothing. I’ve been seeing the label more often at big box stores like Target, which is really exciting. This means third-party verified eco-friendly products are becoming more accessible to all consumers.

In this article, we’re going to break down everything you need to know about OEKO-TEX®. We will explain what it means, and will detail how their various labels differ. We will identify which brands are using OEKO-TEX® certified products. Lastly, we will explore how their MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® label is a step toward sustainability.

Let’s get to it.

This post is sponsored by OEKO-TEX®. We are excited to work with OEKO-TEX® because of their commitment to making non-toxic and eco-friendly consumer products more accessible with their various certifications and labeling systems. As always, we only recommend brands we truly believe in.

What is OEKO-TEX®?

OEKO-TEX® consists of several third-party certifications that ensure products undergo testing for potentially harmful chemicals that could affect humans and the wider ecosystem. OEKO-TEX® doesn’t manufacture any products itself; rather, it verifies other companies’ products.

Started in 1992, OEKO-TEX® has since expanded to include 18 independent represented around the world and six separate sets of standards that serve different purposes. (We’re going to break those down for you in a minute.)

Their overall mission is to “create trust in textiles and leather and in their production: through increased product safety, improving sustainable production and a sustainable, transparent value-creation chain.”

Third-party certifications are super important because they help to prevent greenwashing. This is becoming more and more important as sustainability becomes trendier. It’s easy for companies to jump on the eco bandwagon with their marketing jargon, but as conscious consumers, we want companies to prove that they’re putting their money where their mouth is. Having an outside body come in and check their operations and products according to a specific set of standards can help make this happen.

What materials can be OEKO-TEX® certified?

The majority of materials and end products that are OEKO-TEX® certified are in the textile category. But within that, there is actually a pretty wide variety of goods that can potentially earn an OEKO-TEX® certification label. These include:

• Any kind of textile in any stage of processing, starting from the threads to the finished goods. This includes natural fibers like cotton and wool as well as synthetics like polyester and semi-synthetics like rayon.

• Other components of a finished product undergo testing, such as threads, buttons, zippers, linings, dyes, and coatings.

• Metals and glass

• Foams and plastics

• Leather

Breaking Down the OEKO-TEX® Labels

There are six different labels that a material or end product can potentially earn from OEKO-TEX®. 

STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®

This is the most popular label that you’re likely to see most often. The STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification means that every component of the end product (including buttons, zippers, etc.) has been tested for harmful substances.

The substances tested for include both regulated and non-regulated ones, and in many cases, the limit values for these substances go beyond national and international requirements. The team updates the criteria catalog at least once a year and expands it with new scientific knowledge or statutory requirements. This not only helps to give confidence to consumers that what they’re buying is safe, but it also helps brands and manufacturers to stay up to date with the latest data on substance safety and toxicity (which can be a lot of work when you’re also trying to run a company!)

MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX®

The MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® label is similar to the STANDARD 100, but takes it even further. Manufacturers test not only materials and end products for harmful substances but also evaluate the processes used to create those products.

The MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® label ensures that manufacturers produce products in environmentally friendly ways. This includes responsible management of chemicals, wastewater handling, and other sustainable practices. Not only that, but this label also accounts for the working conditions of the workers involved in making the product as well.

This more holistic label is becoming more popular, and we’re happy to see it!

How is OEKO-TEX® different from other certifications?

Different types of certifications test, audit, and verify materials and products at different production stages. STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX®, for example, mostly looks at the safety of end products. Other certifications such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) and United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) Organic, on the other hand, look at things like how a certain product (or ingredient/material used to make a product) was grown and harvested. 

Additionally, some labels may be inapplicable for certain products or materials. Rayon, for example, cannot be certified organic (since it’s not considered a “natural product” by the time it gets to its end-stage). However, it can be certified by OEKO-TEX® to ensure it’s tested for toxic substances. (As a side note, the OEKO-TEX® certification is actually really important for materials like rayon. This is because of the harsh chemicals used to turn bamboo and eucalyptus from a plant into a silky rayon fabric. This is why it’s important to buy TENCEL™ branded rayon textiles because they all carry the STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® certification.)

Other labels include the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC), which certifies that wood, paper, and rubber-based products are sourced sustainably. Additionally, Fair Trade International considers the wages and working conditions of the people who make the products. 

As you can see, all of these different labels test and verify different things. This is why you will often see multiple labels on one product. Under the Canopy, for example, carries the MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX® label as well as the GOTS Organic and FSC certifications. This indicates that their bedding and towels have been verified by third parties across the entire life of the product, from sourcing (FSC) to growing and harvesting (GOTS), to the supply chain and end product (MADE IN GREEN by OEKO-TEX®).

How OEKO-TEX® is increasing product transparency with their label check tool:

I think OEKO-TEX’s Label Check tool is really cool. It’s just one more step they’re taking to help empower consumers to take steps toward sustainability and prevent greenwashing.

Basically, this tool allows you to look up a specific OEKO-TEX® certified product using a number and/or QR code to verify whether or not the product is carrying a valid OEKO-TEX® label.

It’s super easy, too. All you have to do is:

1. Enter the label ID at madeingreen.com or scan the QR code.
2. On the page that comes up, you can view the supply chain, click on various icons to learn more about the process details, the factories where the product was made, etc.
3. That’s it!

Some of our favorite OEKO-TEX® Certified Brands and Products

A LOT of the brands and products we’ve been featuring on Sustainably Chic for years carry an OEKO-TEX® label.

Check out our post - HERE - for 14 clothing brands who use the OEKO-TEX® label

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Conclusion

So there you have it! Hopefully, the next time you see a MADE IN GREEN or STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX® label on an article of clothing or set of bedsheets, you feel educated and empowered, knowing that it’s been third-party tested and certified to be traceable and safer for people and the planet. And if you’re ever in doubt, just use the OEKO-TEX® label to verify and find out more information about the life of your product.

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Sustainable & Eco-Friendly Certifications for Clothing

The phrases “green” and “eco-friendly” do little to uncover the extent of a clothing brand's environmental efforts. Though they imply ethical and sustainable practices, greenwashing tactics often use these buzzwords because of their vague nature. As the sustainable fashion industry grows, the need for transparency is more important than ever. Where the typical terms fall short on specifics, clothing certifications supply shoppers with the reassurance they need to invest in the right products. These voluntary certifications can represent any and all aspects of the manufacturing process, and help shoppers determine which standards and criteria brands are meeting. Whether searching for verified organic materials or confirmation of ethical working conditions, these certifications extend to nearly every part of our concerns as conscious shoppers. Now it’s time to understand what these labels actually mean, and where we can find them! 

1) Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS)

What is GOTS-Certified?

GOTS is recognized worldwide as the leading textile process standard for organic fibers, verifying that the supply chain meets its criteria for the coveted “Made With Organic” stamp. With a clear set of environmental and ethical requirements, this certification identifies brands committed to sourcing organic materials. GOTS-certified products ensure that all textiles are made from at least 70% organic natural fibers and that any chemical input (such as dyes) is evaluated for toxicity and biodegradability. Social criteria must also be met by upholding the labor standards set forth by the International Labor Organization.

Where Can You Find GOTS-Certified?

Brook There proudly promotes that their everyday undergarments are made from GOTS-certified organic cotton. This minimalist lingerie brand designs for longevity by pairing durable material with timeless styles and colors. 

Komodo, self-proclaimed as “The Original Ethical Brand Since 1988,” declares that looking good while protecting the environment goes hand-in-hand. These sleek silhouettes with pops of color for both men and women are GOTS certified and a member of the soil association. 

Read more about GOTS-Certified Here

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2) Fair Trade Certified

What is Fair Trade Certified?

A Fair Trade Certified seal confirms that a brand pays fair wages to workers in developing countries and ensures that all employees work in safe conditions. In addition, brands with this certification emphasize garment laborers' rights in their supply chain and environmental protection. Fair Trade prioritizes the treatment of people to build sustainable livelihoods and uplift communities through an internationally agreed set of social, economic, and ecological standards. There are a few types of Fair Trade certifications, each with personalized distinctions. 

Once the same entity, Fair Trade USA and Fair Trade International separated to allow Fair Trade USA to grant certifications to large and small farms. While their labor standards are nearly identical, Fair Trade International also includes an environmental standard prohibiting GMOs and toxic chemicals. As a result, shoppers can be sure that a Fair Trade certified product uses methods of production that protect not only the environment but also the people who made them. 

 Fair Trade Federation (FTF) and World Fair Trade Organization (WTFO) differ from Fair Trade USA and International because they are granted to a company or enterprise instead of a product or material. FTF, which relies upon self-reporting, is a network that grants companies membership based on ethical standards like safe working conditions, living wages, and environmental stewardship. WTFO is a community of enterprises dedicated to fair trade and demonstrating their commitment to serving marginalized communities and solutions to broad issues such as the overuse of natural resources, women's empowerment, refugee livelihoods, human rights, inequality, and sustainable farming. Through peer reviews and independent audits, WFTO verifies members are mission-led and implementing the 10 Principles of Fair Trade across their business and supply chains.

Where Can You Find Fair Trade Certified?

Kowtow is a women’s workwear brand you can feel proud to keep in rotation. Based in New Zealand, their boldness extends past picking patterns and into their commitment to the environment. With 100% Fair Trade certified cotton, Kowtow embodies what it means to be mindful of the communities where they work. 

Outerknown is certified by Fair Trade USA and is also dedicated to working with recycled material to combat the issues of textile waste. For the adventurous type, Outerknown makes clothes for those who get out into nature just as much as they talk about it.

Read more about Fair Trade Certified Here

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3) Standard 100 by OEKO-TEX

What is OEKO-TEX Standard 100?

OEKO-TEX is a popular label with several certifications on chemical usage in garments. Standard 100 is the most common certification testing for substances that are harmful to humans. If an article of clothing carries this certification, it’s a guarantee that every component has been tested for toxic chemicals and given a clean bill of health. The test is conducted based on an extensive criteria catalog, updated at least once a year to expand with new knowledge and requirements. As a result, OEKO-TEX experts have consumers’ backs when protecting their health from potentially harmful chemicals in their clothing. An apple a day keeps the doctor away, but OEKO-TEX keeps the chemicals away.

Where Can You Find OEKO-TEX Standard 100?

Outland Denim was founded as a training and employment opportunity for women who have experienced sex trafficking. Today, these women craft premium denim from the finest OEKO-TEX Certified materials worldwide. 

Read more about OEKO-TEX Certified Here & Find a List of 14 Brands who use the Certification

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4) Certified B Corporations

What are Certified B Corporations?

B Corp certifications measure the full scope of a company’s social and environmental performance. This includes anything from materials to supply chain and employee treatment. The non-profit B Lab awards its stamp of approval and takes into consideration a brand’s approach to people, products, and profit. B Corp Certified businesses are expected to meet their rigorous social and environmental standards, focusing on transparency and accountability. This certification is about establishing a brand as a force for good and as leaders in the larger global movement for better practices. These companies balance profit with an emphasis on purpose. 

Where Can You Find Certified B Corps?

KOTN fulfills its responsibilities as a B Corp by directly working to benefit the lives of its cotton farmers. Their mission is to set the standard for conscious creation and consumption with underwear and loungewear for men and women. 

Read more about Certified B Corps Brands

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5) Cradle to Cradle (C2C)

What is Cradle to Cradle Certification?

C2C Certified products focus on circularity. To receive certification, products are assessed for environmental and social performance across five critical sustainability categories: material health, material reuse, water stewardship, social fairness, and renewable energy and carbon management. A product is assigned an achievement level (Basic, Bronze, Silver, Gold, Platinum) for each category. In addition, cradle to Cradle works to identify brands that not only have ethical materials sourcing on the front end but also consider the end-of-life impact of their product.

Where Can You Find Cradle to Cradle Certification?

Eileen Fisher is a C2C Certified brand committed to making circularity the new standard for the sustainable fashion industry. For over a decade, they have collected gently worn EF garments to clean and resell, finding innovative ways to keep clothes out of landfill. 

Loomstate is a sustainable brand based in New York City that has also reached C2C Certified status. Through its unique sourcing and design, Loomstate is changing how we see professional uniforms in sustainable fashion. As if that wasn’t enough, they are also Fair Trade and OEKO-TEX certified.

Read more about Why Circular Fashion Matters Here

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6) Leather Working Group (LWG)

What is LWG Certified?

The LWG certifies tanneries and leather traders based on their adherence to environmental protection guidelines. LWG ratings (Gold, Silver, or Bronze) are based on how companies' production processes affect the environment. Audits are done by several third parties using the same standards, considering waste management, energy consumption, and water usage. This certification aims to reward brands sourcing leather from environmentally responsible suppliers.

Where Can You Find LWG Certified?

Nisolo is not only a certified B Corp; most of their leather comes from LWG Certified tanners in León, Mexico. This 100% carbon-neutral footwear brand pushes the industry toward a more sustainable and ethical direction. 

Everlane has established itself by designing comfortable basics with what they call "radical transparency" in its manufacturing processes. In addition, Everlane continues its commitment to sustainable staple items with a Gold certification from the LWG. 

Although better than conventional leather, LWG has its criticisms. Read them here.

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7) Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)

What is FSC Certified?

The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) is a non-profit organization with standards to ensure forestry is practiced in an environmentally responsible and socially beneficial way. An FSC certification is considered the "gold standard" designation for wood harvested from forests. Though we usually think of wood usage in terms of furniture, construction material, and paper, it's also expanding into the textile world. Forest-based fabrics, such as rayon, Tencel, viscose, modal, or lyocell, are becoming increasingly more popular in the fashion industry and can be more environmentally friendly than synthetic textiles or cotton if the cellulose fibers come from well-managed forests. There are three types of labels that the FSC distributes: FSC 100 Percent for products from FSC-certified forests, FSC Recycled for products made from reclaimed material, and FSC Mixed for when a product is made from at least 70 percent FSC-certified or recycled materials. 

Where Can You Find FSC Certified?

Sézane is a French ready-to-wear brand that has been bestowed an FSC certification for its commitment to a more sustainable world. Their collection includes a detailed breakdown of each component showcasing 68% FSC-certified mixed viscose. These pieces may be vintage-inspired, but they are made from sustainable fashion's most innovative materials. 

Nau is an outerwear and loungewear brand that has earned its sustainable stripes by producing durable products made from certified natural materials. Their breathable, moisture-wicking activewear consists of FSC-certified eucalyptus Tencel and promises to be your favorite pick for warm weather days.

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A Few More Certifications…

Bluesign: A standard awarded to textile manufacturers who provide safe working conditions for their employees and work to minimize their environmental impact. For example, Toad&Co

Better Cotton Initiative: A non-profit organization that supports a more sustainable way to source cotton through a defined set of standards. For example, Kathmandu

Climate Beneficial: A verification awarded to farmers by the non-profit Fibershed ensures that the materials (typically wool) are created by farming that sequesters more carbon than it emits. For example, Coyuchi

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& One Last Note…

PETA labels are not typically considered a sustainable certification since they don’t consider workers’ rights or environmental impact. However, their standards for animal treatment and plant-based products are still worth noting since they’re seen so frequently. In addition, both of these labels are based on self-reporting without using a third-party auditor to verify. 

Approved-Vegan: This label signifies that the brand or product has signed PETA’s statement of assurance verifying that their product is vegan.

Cruelty-Free: This bunny logo is most commonly used for personal care and beauty products to signify that the company did not conduct or commission any animal tests during product research.

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Julia Grinberg is a writer based in Philadelphia, PA. She is a blog contributor for the vegan shoe brand Sylven New York, and the upcycled leather accessories brand Hyer Goods. When she is not writing on the topic of sustainable fashion, she is crafting short stories for various outlets and is currently working on a collection of creative nonfiction essays.

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How To Lessen Your Microplastics In the Wash

They say there are more microplastics in the ocean than stars in our sky. Today, over 51 trillion microplastic particles are polluting our waterways.

While we can't completely avoid contributing to this number, I have a few tricks I use when washing my synthetic clothing at home.

What Are Microplastics?

Microplastics are tiny pieces of plastic debris in the environment resulting from the disposal and breakdown of consumer products and industrial waste. Clothing has become a massive culprit in contributing to the problem of microplastics because of the popularity of synthetics. Of course, microplastics can come from all different sources, like cosmetics, car tires, large sheets of plastic debris... the list goes on.

Popular Synthetic Fabrics Your Clothes May Be Made Out Of

Much of your clothing is made up of synthetic fibers. These fibers are essentially made of plastic, and when washed, they can break down to form tiny microfibers which make their way back into the water (& in turn, into the stomachs of animals and even our drinking water). In your clothing tags, you may find these four popular synthetic fabrics: Nylon, Polyester, Spandex, and Acrylic. Since most of us will find these fibers in our closets, we figured this post could be helpful!

Our Top Tips for Reducing Microplastics

Wash on Cold

Heat is not suitable for most fabrics. It can easily damage the threads, which then split and release microfibers.

Fill It Up

Less friction occurs when the entire wash machine is full, so fewer fibers are likely to break off. 

Use a Cora Ball or Guppy Bag

This little contraption is just the coolest ever. I got this from EarthHero & I suggest you try one out for yourself. Made from 100% recycled plastic (also recyclable), the Cora Ball traps and secures threads in its "spindles" that can be easily cleaned as microfibers collect. They start to look like lent after several washes. Pull them off and throw them in the trash.

Use Liquid Detergent

Powder detergents act as scrubs and can scrub off fibers. 

Hang Dry or Dry on Low

Of course, hang drying would be the best option, but if you live in a small space, that can be difficult to do with every load. Also, the low setting helps lessen the friction between clothes. 

Wash Less

This is a no-brainer and maybe too obvious to mention. However, I can quickly throw something in the hamper, which could probably be worn a few more times. 

Buy Natural Fibers

Clothing made from natural fibers like cotton, linen, hemp, and wool isn't going to shed microplastics into the wash. So check the content on the tag before purchasing. Your skin prefers these natural guys better, anyway!

You may already do a few of these anyway to prolong your clothing, but I hope you may have learned a couple more tricks!

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Is the LWG Certification Sustainable?

If you’re someone who’s eager to make sure the shoes, bags and accessories you buy are eco-friendly, you might have heard of the Leather Working Group, which certifies leather goods that are promoted as sustainable, supporting environmental stewardship. But how accurate are these claims? Let’s dive deep into what the certification actually ensures. 

Animal-derived leather, particularly the most common of its kind, cow skin leather, is a controversial topic in the sustainable fashion space. Whether it’s deforestation in the Amazon, regenerative agriculture claims, methane, or the intersection of environmentalism and animal protection, there’s lots to explore. With so much information – and misinformation – swirling around, the leather industry has attempted to develop environmental stewardship protocol for leather manufacturing. Queue the Leather Working Group.

So, if a bag is labelled with the Leather Working Group certification logo, what’s that mean for the environmental footprint of that accessory? 

Leather tanneries, chemical pollution and worker’s rights

Most leather is tanned in either China, Brazil, Russia, India or Italy. Unfortunately, environmental and social justice issues – which are inextricably linked – have been found across the industry in these and other countries. In fact, as with much of the mainstream fashion industry, such issues are the norm rather than the exception. 

Tannery workers are far more likely to be at risk of becoming sick with some types of cancer. They also face chronic coughing, skin ailments and other diseases directly tied to their work. Why? 90% of leather is tanned with carcinogenic chromium, as well as other harmful substances like arsenic and formaldehyde. These chemicals are known to run out into waterways surrounding tanneries, endangering the health of local wildlife and human communities. The Pulitzer Centre’s short film, The Toxic Price of Leather, explores just how devastating this impact is to areas around India’s tanneries. 

In response to these woeful problems, the Leather Working Group (LWG) has a strong focus on tanneries and improving their environmental impact. The LWG auditing process includes hundreds of questions which do reduce the negative impacts of tanning. 

Concerningly though, ‘gold status’ LWG certification can be achieved by a tannery which conducts zero social auditing. Some very limited worker health and safety considerations are made, but these are very minimal, and a score of just 50% is considered a pass. 

Not only does this cause concerns considering the health risks facing workers, but because exploitative pay, child and forced labour has been documented in the industry. Workers deserve better, and the fashion industry will never be sustainable if it refuses to stop treating people like commodities to exploit for economic gain. 

Is Leather Working Group leather chromium free, or vegetable tanned?

Considering the often dangerous risks associated with using chromium to tan leather, many people wonder if certifications like LWG ensure chromium is not used. LWG leather can contain chromium, but there’s more to consider here, too.

While many people pine for the less than 10% of leather that is vegetable tanned, studies have found that this tanning process does not actually have a significantly different environmental impact, compared to conventionally tanned leather. In fact, contrary to popular belief, vegetable tanned leather is not even considered ‘effectively biodegradable’ by the industry – though it is often marketed as such to distinguish it from chrome leather. There are different ‘benefits’ and ‘failings’ of each tanning process, but more importantly, the majority of leather’s environmental impact does not occur during tanning.

Leather’s environmental impact: beyond the tannery

If most of leather’s environmental impact doesn’t take place in a tannery, where’s it coming from? And what’s LWG doing about it? Some of this impact occurs at slaughterhouses, and the vast majority, on farms and ranches. Before we go further, a little mythbusting: if you’ve ever heard that leather is a by-product of meat and dairy production, it’s in fact a valuable co-product. 

Ranches and slaughterhouses both profit from the sale of skins; the leather industry is worth well over 100 billion dollars, and when skins don’t sell – even due to the popularity of animal-free alternatives – massive financial losses occur. Because of this, when we talk about the impact of leather production on the planet, we need to consider slaughterhouse and on-farm impacts. To be fair, environmental experts use ‘economic allocation’, attributing emissions to either skins or flesh sold as food, based on how much money they make the industry. 

If we look from a purely environmental perspective, slaughterhouses can be wrapped up with all sorts of problems: the United Nations’ Food and Agricultural Organization recognises these facilities as having a high local pollution potential, as discharge and waste – like blood, bones, entrails and faeces – can contaminate freshwater ways. This can, in some cases, even lead to eutrophication, a process which has the potential to cause dead-zones where aquatic life struggles to survive. 

Wondering what LWG certified leather does to combat this problem? You might be shocked to hear it, but the answer is absolutely nothing. The Leather Working Group certification is a tannery-only audit.

image from The Guardian

The most environmentally damaging part of leather production is ignored by the LWG certification

Not only are slaughterhouses and their impact ignored by the LWG certification, but so too are farms. This is seriously concerning, especially considering how significant the land, climate and water footprint of leather is, when considering on-farm impacts. 

There are serious consequences to the Leather Working Group’s inaction at the farm level. In fact, a stand.earth report showed a significant number of brands selling Leather Working Group certified leather were tied to and likely funding the deforestation of the precious Amazon Rainforest. Did you know that 1 Brazilian leather bag is equal to 1,000 square metres of cleared land?

Some brands choose to avoid leather from Brazil to protect the Amazon, but unfortunately, deforestation is a global problem. In Australia, cattle rearing is a leading cause of deforestation – and the country is one of the world’s top ten producers of skins. Inefficient use of land, kept cleared and empty of native vegetation is a problem across the globe, often fuelled by demand for animal-derived products. 

Land use transformation can result in massive greenhouse gas emissions, and rearing cattle for slaughter is already a gassy business. Even compared to conventional synthetic leather – a material we need to transition beyond using – cow skin leather products have a carbon equivalent footprint nearly 7 times more harmful. Until LWG acts on climate and deforestation, the certification cannot ensure sustainability. 

The Leather Working Group also says it certifies ‘ethical leather’ – is this true?

If the term ‘ethical leather’ – used by the LWG – were ever to be considered as a genuine possibility, we’d need to talk about animals. While the ethics of workers’ rights and treatment aren’t considered by the Leather Working Group, is the wellbeing of animals, at least?

Unfortunately, this is another area where the LWG doesn’t like up to its promises. Not a single animal protection consideration is made by the group. 

Cattle in the leather industry are often painfully mutilated – their sensitive horns cut off, their skin branded with searing hot metal. Others are confined to feedlots where they can’t follow their natural instincts, and some are killed at just a few days old, sometimes in horrible ways. 

Where can we find genuinely sustainable and ethical leather?

The safest, most sustainable and ethical way to source leather, is to choose plant-based leather. Materials created as alternatives to tanned cattle skin continue to be developed, and are only becoming more environmentally friendly and budget conscious. 

While not all leather alternatives are created equal, here are some that we love, and that are available at the moment:

Apple leather

This material is partly bio-based, and partly synthetic. While that’s not perfect, this material – like cactus, mango and grape alternatives – has a lower land, carbon and water footprint, and isn’t tied up in so many ethical quandaries. Apple leather alternatives – made partly from apple cores, seeds and stalks discarded in the juice industry – are becoming more and more easily accessible.  

Piñatex

This material has a far lower environmental impact than animal leather and conventional synthetic alternatives. Made from otherwise wasted pineapple plant leaves which are coated in a bio-resin, the material is about 95% biodegradable. Piñatex has a somewhat unique texture, and it ages beautifully, softening over time, and kept in perfect condition with moisturising balms – just as with other leather. 

Recycled vegan leather

While it’s likely you’ve heard of recycled leather, did you know recycled vegan leather exists, too? Both of these materials usually have some synthetic element to them, in order to bind the material together. 

While virgin synthetics aren’t the solution we need for the future, using what is already here is worthwhile, and helps to make fashion more circular. 

Cork

An option that’s often forgotten, cork is a great, water-resistant, sturdy and biodegradable leather alternative. Perfect for hardier uses like belts, backpacks and shoes, cork bark is removed from trees that continue to grow, with this process actually allowing trees to sequester more carbon. 

Mirum

This new material is beginning to pop up all over the place, and is made without any plastic. Certified as 100% bio-content through the USDA’s bio-preferred program, Mirum is versatile, made with slightly different ingredients depending on the use. 

For example, a black Mirum handbag can be made from a blend of Forest Stewardship Certified natural rubber, natural colourants like charcoal, natural fillers like clays, as well as plant-based oils and waxes. 

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About the Author:

Emma Håkansson is the founder and director of Collective Fashion Justice which seeks to create a total ethics fashion system that prioritizes the life and wellbeing of non-human & human animals, as well as the planet, before profit & production. She has written countless articles on ethics, sustainability, and fashion, and has two books due out over the next two years.

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WANT TO FIND SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? VISIT OUR BRAND DIRECTORY!

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image: Segan

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliated; we may earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. We only ever add brands & products we truly believe in. Thank you for supporting the brands who are making the fashion industry a better place!

what is Mirum and where to find it

As sustainability in fashion is further explored, the importance of alternatives to both animal-derived and fossil-fuel based leathers is becoming more commonly accepted. MIRUM is a new and innovative leather-like material that is entirely free from both animal and plastic inputs. So what’s it made of, and what brands are using it?

The importance of moving beyond animal leather 

Before we can talk about leather alternatives, we need to look at why there’s such a need for these alternative materials to begin with. When it comes to animal-derived leather, there are a myriad of ethical and environmental consequences of production worth evolving beyond. Some of these include the exploitation and slaughter of animals, deforestation and inefficient land use, biodiversity destruction, significant greenhouse gas emissions, tannery pollution and worker’s rights issues across the supply chain.

Based on some industry data, calculations suggest a Brazilian leather handbag can result in as much as 1,000 square meters of once biodiverse land being kept clear for production, while other data shows a similarly sized cow skin leather bag to have a carbon equivalent footprint of over 100kg, and a water footprint of as much as over 17,100 liters. 

While leather – a valuable co-product of meat and dairy production – has been used for centuries and been relied on by humans in that time to make sturdy shoes, bags and other clothes, fashion is now evolving. 

The importance of moving beyond synthetic leather

While animal-derived leather isn’t a sustainable fashion solution, the replacement of leather by virgin synthetic materials isn’t ideal for the planet, either. While even polyurethane synthetic leather has a smaller carbon, water and land footprint, in some instances even requiring less chemistry and fossil fuel use, ‘more sustainable’ than leather doesn’t make for a ‘genuinely sustainable’ material. Synthetic leather is still a plastic product derived from fossil fuels. We can do far better than that. 

Fossil fuel extraction is the leading cause of the climate crisis, and the synthetic materials produced from them can’t naturally biodegrade, spelling trouble when shoes and bags made from the material are no longer wanted. 

It’s because of these problems that material innovation is so important. Material Innovation Initiative’s latest report found that since 2015, $2.3 billion has been invested in the next-gen material space, with the majority of this work going into replacing animal-derived and synthetic leather. In fact, 49 of the 74 companies in the next-gen material space are working on leather replacements. 

Partly bio-based alternatives are stepping stones to further innovation

At the moment, a number of more sustainable alternatives to both animal-derived leather and synthetic leather are still actually partly synthetic. For example ‘cactus leather’, ‘pineapple leaf leather’, ‘apple leather’, ‘mango leather’ and other colloquially named materials are actually only partly plant-based. Many of these materials are blended with synthetics – the plant matter dried out and made into a powder which is mixed with polyurethane, or in the case of Piñatex made from pineapple plant leaves (a ~95% plant-based material), coated in a thin layer of bio-resin, made from plasticised plant starch. 

These materials are more sustainable than both of the earlier mentioned materials, and also reduce fashion’s reliance on fossil fuels – even if not eliminating it entirely. Essentially, they’re a far better choice to pick from, move the needle in the right direction, but still have room to improve. They can be seen as stepping stones to the most ideal leather alternatives of the future. Materials, for example, like MIRUM. 

image: Bellroy

What is Mirum made of? 

MIRUM is an entirely new kind of leather-like material. Made entirely without plastic of any kind, MIRUM is certified to be made of 100% bio-content through the USDA’s biopreferred program. MIRUM only ever uses natural materials that ensure recyclability at the end of the materials life as a bag, shoe or belt. 

Using abundant plant matter and ‘upcycled’ agricultural side streams rather than primary products (similar to how Piñatex uses pineapple plant leaves, rather than the fruits themselves), the material is efficient and renewable. 

The question of what’s actually in MIRUM is complex, because it is so customisable. If a brand wants a slightly different texture, feel, thickness or color, MIRUM will be made accordingly, with slightly different inputs. 

For example, a bag made by Melina Bucher features supple black MIRUM, and is made from a blend of Forest Stewardship Certified natural rubber, natural colorants like charcoal from pine, natural fillers like clays, plant-based oils and waxes. Other ‘ingredients’ used in different iterations of the material include coconut husk fiber, cork powder made as a by-product of wine-stopper making, and rice hull. Another brand, Bellroy, says their custom formulation of MIRUM also includes soybeans, and is backed with organic cotton. 

These inputs are blended together during a mechanical process which forms a sheet, with the help of a patented plant-based curative. This is something MIRUM has over partly bio-based materials, which combine and set plant-based ingredients in a plastic-based or petrochemical substance. 

image: Camper

How sustainable is MIRUM?

While everything that makes up MIRUM sounds great, how do we know if it’s really sustainable? Well, the company that makes the material, Natural Fiber Welding, recently released an intimate assessment of how the material impacts the climate when compared to animal-derived leather, synthetic leather and partly-bio-based leather. And the results are seriously attention-grabbing. 

MIRUM’s first carbon footprint assessment found that producing one square meter of the material results in as little as 0.84kg of carbon equivalent emissions (CO2e), with the higher end of the estimate equating to 2.1kg of CO2e. That’s equal to roughly the same amount of greenhouse gasses required to wash and dry one load of laundry!

To compare this with other similarly used materials, the assessment also shows one square meter to have a CO2e impact that’s:

• Nearly 14 times smaller than chrome-tanned leather from cradle to gate

• Over 7.5 times smaller than synthetic leather’s impact

• Almost 4 times smaller than that of partly-bio-based PU leathers

While sustainability isn’t only about carbon, and we need to consider water use, chemistry, land use, biodiversity and other impacts too, the climate impact of a material is extremely important, and these results have huge implications for the future of fashion. 

Too, given that we know MIRUM’s inputs are natural, chemistry won’t be a major problem with MIRUM, and when it comes to land use, the plant-based materials that are used to produce it are considered to be pretty efficient – especially as compared to animal-derived materials. 

When it comes to circularity – an important aspect of material sustainability which ensures reduced waste – MIRUM performs well too; the material is able to decompose into compost mulch. 

image: Melina Bucher

What brands are working with MIRUM? 

A handful of brands are working with MIRUM at the moment, with this number soon to expand, as the company has recently partnered with Veshin Factory, which ethically makes vegan bags for brands around the world. This partnership will allow greater accessibility to the material. 

Here are some of the brands working with the material right now:

Melina Bucher

The Bailey bag from Melina Bucher features both black and sand-toned MIRUM, in a sleek, timeless style paired with golden toned hardware. Ethically handcrafted in Spain, the brand is entirely vegan and dedicated to female leadership.

Bellroy

Certified B-Corp Bellroy was the first brand to release MIRUM commercially. Today, the brand offers a simple wallet, a sling bag, and will soon release another bag. They’ve also previously released now sold out phone cases, laptop sleeves and other products using the material.

Looking more broadly, Bellroy works with the Centre for Effective Altruism to support some not-for-profit projects, is transparent about the efforts to improve their sustainability, and works hard to be a positive place to work. The brand is based in Melbourne, Australia. 

Segan

An ethically made bag from a brand that participates in Fashion Revolution campaigns, Segan is working with MIRUM to create PETA certified vegan, fairly crafted and sustainable bags. The brand is also dedicated to genderless fashion and rejecting needless labels. 

Right now, you can only sign up to get updates from the brand, which will ship to the US and Canada. 

Modher

Another certified B Corp, Modher uses traditional techniques to craft fairly made bags. Having previously worked only with animal-derived leather, the Italian designed and made brand now offers a small crossbody bag made from MIRUM. It’s exciting to see brands moving forward with materials like this.  

Camper

Camper is the first shoe brand to make sneakers with MIRUM, making the material more accessible. However, Good On You gives the brand a poor rating, citing their lack of commitment to ensuring living wages to their workers, and to reducing their overall environmental impact.

While it’s great to see Camper supporting this important material innovation, they need to do far more to ensure they’re living up to the promise of ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ fashion which MIRUM aligns with. 

Allbirds

Under the name ‘Plant Leather’, Allbirds is working on a collection of MIRUM sneakers and shoes. Allbirds previously has only used wool and wood-based fibers in their shoe collections, making MIRUM an exciting edition to the collection. Allbirds is another brand that doesn’t have a very good rating from Good On You, so check that out before making any decisions. 

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About the Author
Emma Håkansson is the founder and director of Collective Fashion Justice which seeks to create a total ethics fashion system that prioritizes the life and wellbeing of non-human & human animals, as well as the planet, before profit & production. She has written countless articles on ethics, sustainability, and fashion, and has two books due out over the next two years.

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