AI is Contributing to Shein's Rapid Rise as the World's Fastest Polluter

Notorious fast fashion behemoth Shein stands out in an industry already under fire for its environmental harm. The fashion industry, responsible for contributing 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions, finds one of its most prominent players in Shein. The company’s own sustainability report showed the fashion conglomerate doubled its carbon emissions from 2022 to 2023 (which were off the charts to begin with). 

This fast fashion giant has skyrocketed in popularity, going viral on TikTok and attracting millions of customers (particularly Gen Zers) across close to 150 countries. One market analysis found that close to a whopping 44% of Gen Zers in the US purchase a minimum of one item per month from Shein (which is absolutely crazy!). The company offers as many as 600,000 items for sale at time, with its average cost per item coming in close to $10. 

So how did Shein’s popularity explode so quickly?

Well, it seems like maybe AI played a key role. At every step of the process, from consumer browsing to placing items in their cart to actually placing orders, data is being collected. And as you can probably imagine, the magnitude of this data is unfathomable - which is where AI steps in. Shein uses proprietary AI programs which identify patterns in consumer behavior and are able to accurately predict demand, which is a core component of its successful ultra-fast supply chain. 

This can make Shein unstoppable. “AI enables fast fashion to become the ultra-fast fashion industry, Shein and Temu being the fore-leaders of this,” said Sage Lenier, the executive director of Sustainable and Just Future, a climate nonprofit. “They quite literally could not exist without AI”.

Peter Pernot-Day, Shein’s head of global strategy and corporate affairs, also spoke about Shein’s use of AI during a presentation at a retail conference. “We are using machine-learning technologies to accurately predict demand in a way that we think is cutting edge,” he said. Each of their 5,000+ suppliers have access to this AI software that provides regular updates on consumer behavior and preferences, which they then use to pivot their production to match consumer behavior in real time. 

“This means we can produce very few copies of each garment,” Pernot-Day added. “It means we waste very little and have very little inventory waste.” And while this could be a groundbreaking use of AI tech in making companies more sustainable, we call b******t - major greenwash alert here!

A Shein spokesperson told Grist, “we do not see growth as antithetical to sustainability.” However, their data states otherwise. Business of Fashion analyzed Shein’s sustainability report, and found that the company’s emissions rose at nearly double the rate of its revenue. Looking at other players in the market - Zara’s emissions rose too, but at only half the rate of its revenue, while H&M and Nike’s emissions fell from the previous year, even while sales increased. 

Ultimately, the key unlock to making the fashion industry more sustainable is to encourage consumers to buy less, not more. Fast fashion inherently is not a sustainable model and using AI to make it even faster and more efficient is not a road we want to go down.

What is Fast Fashion?

Fast fashion is a term used to describe the production of large quantities of clothing throughout the year, often characterized by rapid turnover of styles and designs. These brands have streamlined their manufacturing processes to produce clothes at significantly lower costs, making it possible for consumers to frequently update their wardrobes without breaking the bank.

The excessive consumption of low-quality, mass-produced clothing is contributing to a significant increase in textile waste, environmental pollution, and the depletion of natural resources. This has given rise to pressing social concerns, including human rights violations that cannot be overlooked.

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Patagonia Supports Regenerative Farming

In the conversation about sustainable fashion, Patagonia has always led the charge. It has consistently been at the forefront of driving change and is a certified B-Corp (the first one in California) - read more about its ambitious climate goals here. What’s great to see is that Patagonia’s popularity only seems to have increased after it got B-Corp certified in 2012, showing that consumers are keenly looking for more sustainable and ethical brands. 

Patagonia is also a strong supporter of sustainable agriculture and farming. In 2017, it partnered with the Rodale Institute, a non-profit dedicated to regenerative farming. Together, they founded the Regenerative Organic Alliance and established the Regenerative Organic Certified program, which is a certification for food and textiles, showing a commitment to soil health, animal welfare, and farmer support.

What is Regenerative Farming?

Regenerative organic farming has several benefits for the soil, climate, and human welfare, and the Rodale Institute supports farmers in making the transition from conventional to regenerative farming. They provide technical guidance, support with business planning, and equipment stipends to farmers to make the transition easier. 

Regenerative farming uses methods like crop rotation (to ensure single nutrients from the soil aren’t depleted), cover crops (which prevents soil erosion by ensuring fields aren’t left barren), and conservation tillage (reduced tillage aiming for minimal disturbance to the soil) to protect the soil. Conventional industrial farming, on the other hand, continues to rely on fertilizers and pesticides that are often derived from fossil fuels.

Creating the Holdfast Collective To Fight the Climate Crisis

In a bold move in 2022, Patagonia announced that from that moment on, Earth would be its only shareholder, doubling down on the company’s already robust commitment to sustainability. With that announcement, it launched the Holdfast Collective, its nonprofit arm that is committed to fighting the climate crisis - including protecting wildlife restoration, forest preservation, and agricultural regeneration.

Since its launch in 2022, the Holdfast Collective has donated over $71 million to conservation efforts, and has contributed to approximately 70 conservation projects. This includes a $5.2 million grant to help preserve Alabama’s Mobile-Tensaw Delta, also known as “America’s Amazon”, removing a dam in the Vjosa River in Albania, and supporting a California state law that restricts oil and gas operations in residential neighborhoods.

$1 Million Donation to Rodale Institute’s Efforts towards Regenerative Farming

In its latest move, Patagonia (through the Holdfast Collective) has committed to donating $1 million to Rodale Institute’s efforts towards regenerative farming in Ventura County, California. While Holdfast has given grants to support sustainable agriculture in the past, this donation marks its greatest donation to date in this space, according to Greg Curtis, executive director of Holdfast Collective. “And it was pretty easy to make with Rodale,” he adds. 

Known for its expansive farmland, Ventura County is one of the largest agricultural regions in the state, with more than2,000 farms covering 260,000 acres. California produces a third of the country’s veggies and three quarters of its fruits and nuts, and Ventura County makes a significant contribution.

Unfortunately, the county is also known for its concentrated use of pesticides. These pesticides can pollute the soil, water, and air, and have been linked to various health concerns, including respiratory issues, developmental delays, and even cancer.

Which is why the Rodale Institute turned its attention to Ventura County. Rodale Institute’s efforts in Ventura County are supported by the $1 million from the Holdfast Collective, along with funds from the California Department of Food and Agriculture.

Want to learn more about regenerative clothing and home brands? Check out this post here.

We’ve linked up all of Patagonia’s Regenerative clothing here!

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UGG boots have undoubtedly been a fashion staple for cold weather for many years now. First worn by Australian surfers in the 1950s, these brown fur-lined, sheepskin boots became extremely popular in the early 2000s. 

Everyone from celebrities to stay-at-home moms had a pair, and UGGs were a must-have in our closets. While they were momentarily declared “over” in 2012, they quickly made a comeback as the brand introduced new styles. In 2023, everyone was crazy about UGG’s mini, below-the-ankle platform boots and embroidered Tasman slippers - and they haven’t gone out of style for winter 2024-25!

However, while we cannot deny that UGG boots are very cozy and comfortable, they are far from being the most sustainable and ethical shoes on the market. If you still want to choose cozy comfort and trendy style this year, make sure to get one of these seven sustainable alternatives to UGGs instead. Thanks to them, you will be able to say goodbye to chilly toes while making a better choice for the planet. 

ARE UGGS SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL? 

UGG has taken different steps over the years to reduce its environmental footprint. For instance, it has introduced sustainable materials in its collections such as upcycled wool, Tencel lyocell, or recycled polyester. 

However, there is a lot of room for improvement. Its shoes are still made with sheepskin and leather, which are some of the most unsustainable materials. The leather is artificially dyed and treated, so it may contain many harmful chemicals we should not be in contact with. 

Most UGG boots are also made in Asia, primarily in China and Vietnam, where there is little to no environmental regulation. 

Moreover, the company’s supply chain is not certified by any labor standards. So there is no evidence that workers are paid a fair living wage and that they are treated well and working in safe, healthy conditions. 

While UGG may not be the least eco-friendly and ethical footwear brand, it still has a long way to go to be considered sustainable. 

Thankfully, there are different brands we can shop from that are doing a lot better in terms of ethics and sustainability! 

WHAT MAKES A PAIR OF SHOES SUSTAINABLE AND ETHICAL?

A sustainable pair of shoes is made with eco-friendly materials and built to last for many years. It should be designed to withstand constant wear without wearing out in a few seasons. If possible, try to buy shoes that can be resoled and repaired, though these can be tricky to find. 

The brand producing them should also utilize sustainable manufacturing practices and implement different zero-waste initiatives such as energy- or water-saving techniques. It should also minimize its use of toxic chemicals and material waste. 

A sustainable footwear brand also makes its shoes with its workers’ well-being in mind. All the workers in the supply chain should be paid fair wages allowing them to live decently, and work in safe, humane conditions. 

The company should also be transparent about how its products are made and where. Ideally, it has received different third-party certifications such as B Corporation or OEKO-TEX Standard 100. 

Finally, make sure to stay away from fast fashion brands and cheap styles you can find on websites like Amazon. These brands provide very little information about how their products are produced, and their shoes are usually poorly made and not built to last. 

WHAT MATERIALS SHOULD YOU SEARCH FOR?

Most sustainable alternatives to UGGs are made with high-quality synthetic materials or sustainably sourced sheepskin. While these materials are not ideal in terms of sustainability, they are usually long-lasting, meaning that you will be able to wear the shoes for many years. 

However, different brands also make their boots with more eco-friendly materials such as corn “leather”, or recycled materials such as recycled PU, recycled wool, or recycled polyester. One company even crafts them using recycled mattresses! Finally, many of them also make their soles from natural rubber. 

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= Exceptional
= Impressive
= Noteworthy

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OUR TOP PICKS FOR COMFY, SUSTAINABLE ALTERNATIVES TO UGGS:

1. EMU Australia 

Materials: Sheepskin, Merino Wool, Rubber, EVA

Price range: $88-200

EMU Australia creates quality UGG-like boots for each member of the family, including children and babies. It focuses on sustainable production using natural materials. It sells different styles of boots, from ankle boots to tall models, which are all either water-resistant or fully waterproof. You will be able to choose from different colors such as brown, black, gray, and even glossy gold. If you have children, they will love all the fun styles, patterns, and colors available. Our favorites are in the Little Creatures collection, which features incredibly cute animal-inspired UGG-style boots lined with Australian merino wool! 

EMU Australia makes all its boots with double-face sheepskin to keep your feet warm and snug. We particularly recommend those from the Platinum Collection, since they are all handcrafted locally in Australia. The Platinum boots are made from Woolmark-accredited, Australian sheepskin and feature a removable sheepskin-lined insole, a dual-layered EVA midsole, a flexible outsole, and a reinforced heel cup.  And if you are looking for a comfy, yet more feminine model, you should check out the Platinum Hi Lace boots. They are classic UGG-like tall boots with a cool side lace detail, allowing for a flexible fit and adding a fashionable touch. 

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2. Zette Shoes 

Materials: Microfiber PU, Corn Leather, Faux Shearling, EVA 

Price range: $122

Zette Shoes is the in-house brand of the Australian vegan footwear boutique Vegan Style. This ethical, cruelty-free shoe line is consciously crafted in limited quantities with sustainable materials and combines timeless elegance with playful styles. With its Willow collection, it offers vegan UGG-style slipper boots that will keep your feet comfortable, warm, and cozy. Three of them, sold in the colors black, beige, and silver, are handmade from suede-like microfiber PU produced in a CO2-free manufacturing environment. The microfiber PU is water-resistant, durable, and breathable, and molds to the shape of your feet over time. It is also Ecolabel and OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certified, meaning that harmful chemicals are not released into the environment during the production process and that the boots are 100% non-toxic and healthy to wear. 

The company also has a fourth model whose upper is made from corn leather. This supple yet sturdy material is made in part from corn husks and vegetable oils. How cool?! Zette Shoes’ UGG-style boots also feature a faux shearling lining and a lightweight EVA outsole, and they are produced ethically in Brazil. To top it all off, the brand ships everything using recycled packaging and its team has fostered and helped rehome 100+ rescue cats!  

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3. Bearpaw

Materials: Rubber, Faux Suede, Faux Fur

Price range: $60-85

Bearpaw is a brand renowned for offering a wide array of footwear options that prioritize both comfort and style. Their collection includes UGG-style boots, clogs, and slippers, catering to women, men, kids, and toddlers alike. For those who adhere to a vegan lifestyle, Bearpaw proudly presents a diverse range of vegan boots. These boots are crafted with high-quality faux suede uppers and feature a plush faux fur lining along with footbeds that provide exceptional comfort.

In addition to their vegan options, Bearpaw’s traditional offerings include boots, clogs, and slippers that are made from premium soft suede. Many of these styles are lined with a luxurious wool blend, ensuring warmth and comfort even in colder weather. A notable feature of their footwear is the sheepskin footbed, which not only adds to the plush feel but also helps to regulate temperature, keeping your feet comfortable all day long.

To further enhance the durability and functionality of their products, Bearpaw applies a non-toxic, PFOA-free rain and stain repellent to their footwear.

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4. Be Lenka 

Materials: Leather, Sheepskin, Wool, Recycled PU, Rubber

Price range: $129

Be Lenka is a sustainable Slovak brand that produces minimalist barefoot shoes and ergonomic baby carriers. Its Polaris collection for women consists of beautiful pairs of boots that are quite similar to UGGs. They are sold in the colors gray, and black, and they feature a timeless, classy design. Very versatile, you can wear them with practically anything, from a pair of jeans to athleisure wear! These boots are made from nubuck leather with sheepskin lining that has fantastic warmth-retaining and moisture-wicking properties. The insoles are produced from wool & recycled PU, & the boots have anti-slip, abrasion-resistant rubber soles designed to provide excellent grip.

Just like other barefoot shoes, they respect the natural anatomy of the foot and perfectly mimic walking barefoot. They feature a wide foot-shaped toe box and ultra-flexible, lightweight soles allowing the feet and nerve endings to be stimulated by the surface they walk on. They are also flat from heel to toe, which helps improve body posture and weight distribution. Be Lenka handcrafts its Polaris boots in Portugal using locally sourced materials and focuses on sustainable, high-quality craftsmanship. The brand also regularly supports different charities through the Be Lenka Foundation.

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5. Celtic & Co

Materials: Sheepskin, Rubber

Price range: $129-435

Celtic & Co. is a British family-owned clothing and footwear brand committed to slow fashion. It creates contemporary pieces using sustainable, natural materials and has been making quality sheepskin slippers and boots in Cornwall for over 30 years. It has a huge selection of UGG-style shoes for women, men, kids, and even babies! From classic shearling boots to water-resistant or knee-high models, they are available in many styles and colors. 

The boots are made to stand the test of time and crafted by hand using British shearling. The shearling is sourced as a by-product of the food industry, meaning that it is a waste product that would have otherwise been incinerated. 

Celtic & Co’s boots are finished with an Italian rubber sole, and they feature double-stitched seams for extra resilience and a reinforced heel back to help preserve the shape of the shoe. Not to mention that almost all of them are machine washable! 

The brand works with suppliers that are members of the Leather Working Group or Sedex, and it makes sure to avoid overproduction. It even offers a resole and repair service and regularly makes donations to nonprofits. 

Plus, it received many awards, including the King’s Award for Enterprise in the International Trade category in 2023, which is the highest official award for British businesses! 

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6. PAWJ California

Materials: High-quality Synthetic Suede, Faux Fur, EVA

Price range: $130-170

PAWJ California is a family-run footwear brand based in California selling 100% vegan, cruelty-free boots, shoes, and slippers. 

It offers a wide range of UGG-style boots for women, from mini ankle boots to classic ones to tall models. Men can choose between a black pair of short boots and brown mini boots.

If you like platform shoes, you will be happy to learn that the brand has a few models in that style. PAWJ California also has a pair of clogs that are incredibly similar to UGG’s Tasman slippers!   

The boots are very soft and available in several neutral colors such as black, gray, and different shades of brown and beige. 

PAWJ California produces all its boots using high-quality synthetic suede and faux fur, making them entirely vegan and free of animal-based materials. Not to mention it is a PETA-approved brand.   

The boots feature an EVA sole and are designed with exceptional craftsmanship, comfort, and style in mind. With their reinforced heels and double nylon stitched seams, they are truly made to be long-lasting. 

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7. Call It Spring  

Materials: Recycled Mattresses, PVC-Free Materials, Faux Fur

Price range: $110

Call It Spring is a Canadian brand selling all kinds of shoes and bags for women and men. It offers a cute pair of chunky Jamielee booties that look like UGG boots.It is available in brown, black, and black covered with glittering sequins if you are looking for a more unique, fun look.

These stylish boots are incredibly cozy and feature a round toe box, lug soles, and faux fur lining. They are also waterproof thanks to their sealed seams that help prevent your feet from getting wet. 

As a PETA-approved brand, Call It Spring makes sure this style is 100% vegan and cruelty-free. It is made from PVC-free materials and has an insole produced from 30% post-consumer waste using recycled mattresses and cushions. The insole is designed to be comfortable, breathable, and durable, and does not compress over time.

The brand also ships its products using FSC-certified packaging printed with vegetable-based inks. Plus, it has partnered with the Give Back Box to provide you with a free shipping label so you can easily send your unwanted clothes and shoes to different charities.

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About the Author

Eva Astoul is a French freelance writer, specializing in content related to sustainability, simple living, and a growth-focused healthy lifestyle. She runs her own blog, Green With Less, to inspire people to live a more minimalist and sustainable life.

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The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024

Behind all the glamor, the fashion industry has a (let’s be honest, pretty well-known) dirty secret. The industry accounts for roughly 10% of global emissions - and is more than the aviation and shipping industries combined, which is crazy! Plus, its environmental footprint doesn’t stop there - it fares no better when it comes to waste generation and ranks among the top contributors.  

Well, what’s to blame? The meteoric rise of fast fashion and short-lived fashion cycles encourage high-volume consumption of cheap, low-quality clothes that are only worn a handful of times before they are tossed. 

The Problem with Fashion Today

Think about it - how many pieces of clothing have you bought in your lifetime? You may try to donate or resell some, but do you know where they eventually end up? Even if you buy from sustainable brands (which we love to see!), the question remains - where do these clothes ultimately go? You guessed right. 

A staggering 85% of clothes and textiles eventually end up in incinerators or landfills - where they not only release methane as they decompose, but also most contain synthetic chemicals and dyes which leach into the soil and water.And while 95% of materials used in clothes are recyclable, only 15% actually get reused or recycled.

How Can We Help Fix The Problem of Textile Waste?

But all is not doom and gloom in the fashion world. A groundbreaking new California bill, the first of its kind, attempts to tackle this ever-growing problem of fashion and textile waste (and trust us, it’s piling up). And better yet, it places the burden on the fashion industry, not individual consumers. The Responsible Textile Recovery Act of 2024 and the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) program that it establishes will require producers of clothing, bedding, towels, and upholstery to set up and fund a California-wide program for reusing, repairing, and recycling their products. 

California Democratic State Senator Josh Newman sponsored the bill, which was met with widespread support and was passed by state legislators in August. The bill had endorsements from environmental organizations and retailers alike, including Ikea, Everlane, and Goodwill. Proponents of the bill are optimistic that the EPR program is the starting point for transitioning the industry to a more sustainable and circular economy, which is no small feat. Led by the state’s recycling department, the bill will do this by providing incentives to producers to adopt greener practices and work on more eco-friendly designs. It’ll also make the manufacturers responsible for their products from start to finish, ensuring less waste along the way. 

While this sounds promising, there has been some concern that the cost will ultimately fall on consumers in the form of increased prices. It may also affect smaller and mid-sized brands more than big name brands, who can easily swallow the cost with minimal effect. However, Newman confirmed that consumers shouldn’t see any increased costs due to this program, and estimated that total cost to producers shouldn’t exceed 10 cents per garment. 

Smaller sustainable brands also seem to be on board. Yotam Soloman, founder of LA-based gender-inclusive brand Virtue, supports the new bill. “I think [California’s new law] is something that should have been done a long time ago,” he said. “Unfortunately, this industry that allowed this to happen.”

The earliest the program will be operational is 2028. While the fashion industry still has a long, long way to go, moves like this are definitely a step in the right direction! 

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Image: Fashion Revolution

Fashion Brands & Lack of Transparency on decarbonization Efforts

Despite ample pressure from activists, transparency is far from standard practice in the fashion industry. Yet, if there is something brands are remarkably tight-lipped about, it is their adherence to climate and energy-related policies. This lack of transparency and commitment is what emerges from the report 'What Fuels Fashion?' a special edition of Fashion Revolution's 'Fashion Transparency Index.' 

The 'What Fuels Fashion?' report focuses on five themes: accountability, decarbonization, energy procurement, financing decarbonization, Just Transition, and advocacy. The industry approach to these is assessed in the report by zooming in on the publicly disclosed information shared by 250 of the world's largest fashion companies. 

The authors' choice to include only info and data in the public domain is no coincidence. That is the type of information that shareholders can use to drive the change needed in the industry. 

Image: Fashion Revolution

Transition away from fossil fuels is needed, but big brands are still falling short 

The amount of greenhouse gas emissions (GHG) produced by the fashion industry is enormous: about 2.1 billion tonsin 2018. At its current pace, this sector is on its way to keeping its emissions nearly double what's needed to remain within the 1.5-degree pathway. In spite of this, the report revealed how breaking away from the cause of this issue, fossil fuels, is not a priority for these big fashion brands. 

Of the 117 fashion companies with publicly disclosed decarbonization targets, merely 105 disclose their progress toward their goals. 24% of the major fashion brands don't disclose anything on decarbonization, with 60% scoring 0% in the 'What Fuels Fashion?' report decarbonization section. In addition, less than 1% of these top brands disclose a target to electrify all energy-intensive manufacturing processes where feasible across the supply chain. 

These data paint a grim picture, as according to the SBTi's Corporate Net-ZeroStandard, a climate-science-based framework for corporate net-zero, most businesses will have to reduce their GHG emissions by at least 90% to achieve net zero. 

Transparency in terms of energy consumption is also lacking. 95% do not disclose an energy consumption breakdown by country in the supply chain, and 96% do not share a breakdown of energy consumption by supply chain process. With coal being the most carbon-intensive fossil fuel, a phaseout from it is a crucial part of progress toward climate targets, but just 14% of fashion brands disclosed commitments to phasing out coal in their supply chain. 

The industry, though, does not support the fossil fuel industry just through its energy consumption but also via the materials it utilizes. According to the Changing Markets Foundation, synthetic fibers, ubiquitous in the fast fashion industry, make up 1.35% of global oil consumption. In this context, just 33% of these fashion companies share the breakdown of the fibers they source annually.  

Image: Fashion Revolution

What is needed for decarbonization and a just transition? 

The climate crisis directly impacts workers. By 2030, it is estimated that the total working hours worldwide could decrease by 2.2% because of climate crisis-induced high temperatures. The extreme weather caused by the climatecould also prevent the creation of 1 million new jobs in the apparel industry, according to a report by the GLI and Schroders.

The colonial, profit-driven business model of big fashion brands contributes to a climate crisis that directly impacts the livelihoods and well-being of workers, including garment ones. In the face of the climate crisis's burden on garment workers, only 3% of the companies analyzed in the report disclose what they are doing to compensate workers impacted by the climate crisis economically. 

From the 'What Fuels Fashion? 'report, it is clear that the fashion industry has to decarbonize in a socially sustainable way across its value chain. The report asks large fashion brands to invest at least 2% of their yearly revenue into decarbonization and Just Transition efforts to achieve this goal. «By investing at least 2% of their revenue into clean, renewable energy and upskilling and supporting workers, fashion could simultaneously curb the impacts of the climate crisis and reduce poverty and inequality within their supply chains. Climate breakdown is avoidable because we have the solution - and big fashion can certainly afford it,» said Maeve Galvin, the Global Policy and Campaigns Director at Fashion Revolution, to the press.

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About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.

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