Posts in Fabrics & Certifications
What is the SANE Standard Certification & How Is It Creating a Sustainable Fashion Future?
 

Creating a Sustainable Fashion Future: The Role of Certifications

In the ever-evolving landscape of the fashion industry, the importance of sustainability has become increasingly evident. As the demand for ethical and environmentally friendly practices grows, certifications play a pivotal role in guiding both consumers and brands toward a more sustainable and responsible future. In this extensive exploration, we delve into the challenges consumers and brands face in navigating the complex world of certifications, highlighting the significance of certifications such as SANE and their role in shaping the fashion industry's path toward a greener tomorrow.

Understanding the Dilemma: Consumers and Brands in the Maze of Certifications

The fashion certification sphere resembles a complex mosaic, with numerous pieces representing different standards and aspects. Consumers and brands alike find themselves overwhelmed by the plethora of choices available. The challenge for consumers lies in deciphering the meaning behind each certification, as the lack of in-depth knowledge often prevents them from making informed purchasing decisions. On the other hand, brands grapple with initiating a sustainable transition, deciding on the proper certifications for a comprehensive approach, and effectively communicating their achievements without confusing consumers.

A common criticism the certification landscape faces is the perception that many certifications do not go far enough or lack precision. While painting ideal and concise impact scenarios is crucial, an equally pressing concern is encouraging more brands to embark on their sustainable journey.

Over the past seven years, industry professionals spanning textile manufacturing, compliance management, and environmental protection have collaborated to address these challenges. The collective goal has been to develop an international fashion standard that not only supports brands in initiating their sustainable transition but also follows a holistic approach, covering environmental, social, and consumer health aspects. The result of this collaborative effort is SANE Standard.

SANE: A Holistic Fashion Certification

SANE emerges as a comprehensive fashion standard, standing proudly as a member of the United Nations Conscious Fashion and Lifestyle Network. This network serves as a platform showcasing initiatives that accelerate the implementation of the Sustainable Development Goals. SANE certification covers textiles, accessories, footwear, and home textiles, offering a comprehensive approach that scrutinizes various life cycle phases of a product.

What distinguishes SANE from other certifications is its extensive scope. Unlike certifications that concentrate on specific aspects, such as sustainable textile processing or minimum natural fibers, SANE extends its focus beyond the typical boundaries. The standard places particular emphasis on the choice of low-impact materials covering all material types, the chemical content of final products, the environmental footprint of processing stages, and the working conditions, including fair remuneration for workers.

Ensuring compliance with SANE's criteria requires production facilities to undergo certification by an accredited third-party audit. However, the industry acknowledges the growing audit fatigue, and SANE takes a pragmatic approach by accepting existing credible sustainability standards to avoid unnecessary duplication.

Making Sustainability Achievable and Affordable

SANE's multifaceted approach ensures that crucial aspects are covered as practically as possible. While maintaining high standards, SANE remains achievable for brands, allowing them to kickstart their sustainable transition with a single product or capsule collection before tackling their entire product range. Significantly, the standard aligns with the EU Green Claims Directive, reflecting its forward-thinking approach towards the future of fashion certifications in Europe.

What makes SANE particularly appealing for small and medium-sized companies is its cost structure. Brands pay based on production volume, eliminating the need for a substantial upfront investment. This approach enables brands to gradually expand their sustainable product range and increase their certifications without imposing financial burdens.

Consumer Empowerment through SANE

The impact of SANE extends beyond the industry to the end consumers. By having one certification covering a more extensive scope, SANE simplifies the communication of brands' sustainable transitions. But what does this certification mean for consumers themselves?

Consumers gain the ability to make more confident and informed purchasing decisions. A simple scan of the QR code associated with SANE provides a glimpse into where and how their preferred brand sources and produces its products. The standard empowers consumers to align their choices with their values, enabling them to choose products actively developed by brands working towards a sustainable transition.

Whether displayed on hang tags or stitched onto products, SANE's characteristic logo serves as a symbol of assurance. It signifies products produced with equal consideration for the environment, workers' rights, and consumers' health, setting a new benchmark for sustainability in the textile and fashion industry.

A Comprehensive Vision for a Sustainable Future

In a world where sustainability is not just a buzzword but a necessity, certifications like SANE emerge as beacons of hope. They address the challenges faced by both consumers and brands, offering a roadmap towards a more sustainable and responsible fashion industry.

The intricate web of certifications can be daunting, but the presence of standards like SANE makes the journey more navigable. By focusing on a holistic approach that considers environmental, social, and consumer health aspects, SANE sets itself apart. Its acceptance of existing credible sustainability standards reflects a collaborative spirit, acknowledging the collective efforts needed to drive change.

SANE's commitment to making sustainability achievable and affordable underscores its pragmatic approach. By allowing brands to gradually integrate sustainable practices into their operations without imposing financial constraints, SANE paves the way for a more inclusive and accessible sustainable fashion landscape.

As consumers become increasingly conscious of their purchasing decisions, the power of certifications in guiding choices cannot be underestimated. SANE's role in empowering consumers to make informed decisions by providing transparency into sourcing and production practices signifies a transformative shift towards a more mindful and ethical consumer culture.

In conclusion, certifications like SANE Standard embody the transformative potential of the fashion industry. They are not merely stamps of approval but a commitment to a sustainable future. As more brands embrace such certifications and consumers actively support these initiatives, the fashion industry is taking significant strides toward a future where style and sustainability coexist harmoniously.


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What are Synthetic Fabrics? (& are they sustainable?)
 

A Guide to Synthetic Fabrics

Do you know which fibers your clothes are made of? While the clothing labels on ready-to-wear garments indicate to consumers what the clothes they are about to purchase are made with, we nowadays tend to have a fraction of the knowledge of fibers our ancestors used to have. 

In the past, not only did people make clothes at home, but fibers were also homemade. Evidence allows us to trace the use of textile looms in fiber manufacturing to thousands of years ago. 

While most of us don't have to make our fabrics at home, knowing as much as possible about the materials that make up our clothes is still helpful. That can not only be useful from an everyday, practical perspective but also an environmental one. 

Having more information about the characteristics of the various typologies of fabrics can guide us in choosing clothes and help us take care of our garments properly. This knowledge can aid us in making purchasing decisions that better align with our ethos and ensure our clothes' post-purchase impact is as low as possible.    

If that sounds good, you are in the right place!  

What are Synthetic fibers? 

The term synthetic fibers, also sometimes referred to as manmade or artificial fibers, are textiles that are engineered through chemical processes instead of manufactured starting from natural sources. 

Synthetic fibers are made from polymers derived from petrochemicals or other raw materials. Commonly found synthetic fibers include polyester, nylon, acrylic, and Spandex. As human-made fibers resulting from complex manufacturing processes, these materials can be engineered to have specific qualities.  

While natural fibers such as cotton or linen have a history spanning hundreds of years, synthetic fibers are a much more recent feature of our lives. Nylon, for example, was created in 1927 by the company E. I. du Pont de Nemours & Co. and was made available to the market in 1939.  

Given their consumer-friendly characteristics, these fibers have become widespread in several industries, including fashion, automotive manufacturing, and home furnishings. According to the non-profit organization Textile Exchange, in 2021, these fibers comprised 64 percent of the global fiber market, with 72 million tonnes of synthetic fibers produced that same year. 

Why is the production of Synthetic Fabrics a problem for the environment? 

Despite their characteristics making them appetible to manufacturers and their consequential popularity in the market, synthetic fibers also have significant environmental drawbacks. 

The use of virgin fossil-fuel-derived fibers supports the fossil fuel industry. According to the Intergovernmental organization, the International Energy Agency (IEA), synthetic textiles make up the second-largest end-use segment of global plastic demand, with the sector's estimated consumption of plastic amounting to 15 percent. 

These numbers suggest that 1.35 percent of the total oil is utilized to manufacture synthetic fibers. So, while fossil-fuel-derived fibers are not conflict materials, they are products of an industry with a heavy social impact.  

Synthetic fibers are not biodegradable and have been contributing to environmental pollution. Washing clothes made from fossil-fuel-derived fibers releases microplastics. 

These minuscule bits of plastic are released in particular during the first few washes, and this makes fast fashion a significant factor in this phenomenon, given the ubiquitousness of fast fashion in people's closets. 

About fourteen million tonnes of microplastics are on the Earth's ocean floor. Synthetic fibers have been contributing heavily to this issue. It is estimated that between sixteen to thirty-five percent of global microplastics released to oceans are from synthetic textiles.  

Types of Synthetic Fabrics

Polyester 

Made by mixing ethylene glycol and purified terephthalic acid, polyester is not only the most common type of synthetic fiber used today but the most common among all fibers, as it's used widely in the fashion industry and beyond. 

You can find polyester in the textile composition of anything from blouses and trousers to waterproof clothing and backpacks. In 2021, polyester had a market share of over 54 percent of the world's fiber production, with an annual output of about 61 million tonnes.

Polyester fibers can be used to make resilient, pest-resistant, stain-resistant, and wrinkle-resistant fabrics. It has poor breathability, making it a poor choice for clothing meant to be worn in hot weather.  

The production of this petroleum-based fiber is energy-intensive. A 2021 study by a team from Aachen Maastricht Institute for Biobased Materials (AMIBM) in the Netherlands has highlighted how polyester requires 125 MJ of energy per kilogram produced, resulting in the emission of twenty-seven-point-two kilograms of CO2 equivalent per kilogram of woven polyester fabric. 

Nylon

Thermoplastic polymers are commercially referred to as nylon. DuPont built the first plan for producing this fiber, and the first nylon stockings pair in the US were commercialized in 1940, selling 800,000 pairs on the first days in shops. 

According to the Textile Exchange's 2022 Preferred Fiber Materials Market Report, this fiber took up about 5 percent of global fiber production in the examined year. Nylon is particularly used in activewear, swimwear, stockings, and performance apparel. 

Spandex 

Spandex referred to outside the US as Elastane or Lycra, is a synthetic fiber made from polymers known for adding stretchiness to garments. 

This characteristic makes Spandex a common feature in various clothing typologies, ranging from loungewear, denim, and dresses to underwear and shapewear, which add elasticity to the fiber mix. Hence, it's used chiefly in fiber blends.    

In 2021, elastane had about 1 percent market share of the global fiber market, with global elastane fiber production of one point three million tonnes in the same year.  

Acrylic 

This fiber, made from a polymer, is most commonly used to manufacture knitted fabrics that compose sweaters, scarves, and hats. 

In 2021, acrylic's share of the global fiber market was 1.5 percent, with about 1.7 million tonnes of acrylic fibers produced worldwide. 

What Are Synthetic blends? 

As mentioned earlier, synthetic fibers can make a textile material alone, but manufacturers can mix them with other synthetic or natural fibers. 

Elastene can be mixed with anything from nylon to create shapewear and stockings to cotton in dresses, blouses, and trousers. In knitwear, manufacturers can mix acrylic with other knit-friendly fibers. 

These blends are created to compensate for the technical disadvantages that one or more used fibers bring and mix their advantages. Synthetic blends present post-consumer management challenges, as garments made with these textile materials can be harder to recycle. 

Semi synthetics 

Semi-synthetic fibers are a third group of fibers that have characteristics found in both natural and synthetic fibers. 

Also known as manmade natural fibers, these are fibers with a naturally occurring raw material created through a complex manufacturing process that heavily relies on chemicals.  

Rayon

Rayon, also called viscose, is an artificial cellulosic fiber and semi-synthetic. With a production volume of about 5.8 million tonnes in 2021, viscose has the largest market share of all manmade cellulosic fibers.

Rayon is used chiefly in woven fabrics, and it's derived from wood pulp. This semi-synthetic fiber presents several issues along its life cycle, from the origin of the wood pulp to the chemicals used in the fiber's production.  

Recycled Synthetic Fabrics

In addition to virgin synthetic, consumers can also find their recycled equivalent on the market. For example, of the total global polyester production, 14.83 percent comprises recycled polyester, mostly made from post-consumer PET plastic bottles. 

Recycled nylon, elastane, and acrylics can also be found, but their share of the overall fiber's global protection is much lower than that of recycled polyester. 

The Global Recycled Standard (GRS), the Recycled Claim Standard (RCS), and SCS Recycled Content Standards are some of the most known certifications for recycled textiles. 

How to take care of the synthetic fibers you already own

Clothes made of synthetic fibers have many of the same needs as those made of natural fibers. To take good care of them, we should do our best to wash them only when needed and follow the washing instructions. Avoiding the dryer and preferring air drying always saves much energy and is kinder on the fabrics. 

But unlike those made of natural fiber and natural fiber blends, clothes made of synthetic fibers shed microplastics when washed. Then, these microplastics can make their way from our homes to waterways. 

While tackling the issue of microplastics on a bigger scale will require action from governments and industries, we can still enact individual chances and avoid releasing microplastics from our homes into the oceans when we do our laundry. For example, we can use the GUPPYFRIEND Washing Bag when washing synthetic clothing in the washing machine and the GUPPYFRIEND Sink Filter when hand-washing them instead. 

How to recycle clothes made of synthetic fabrics

Unfortunately, clothes get recycled less than we would want them to. According to the EPA, the recycling rate for textiles in 2018 was just 14.7 percent.  

If you have garments you can't sell, pass down, reuse, or upcycle and want them to get recycled; you should avoid chucking them straight into the trash can. Instead, check out the solutions offered by local programs such as the Re-Clothe NY Coalition or use services like For Days Take Back Bag

Better alternatives to regular synthetic fabrics 

Different synthetic fibers have distinct characteristics, as do their most sustainable alternatives. Lenzing's Tencel is an excellent alternative to polyester-made apparel; organic cotton makes for a breathable alternative to underwear made of synthetic fibers. For activewear or performance apparel, garments made of recycled synthetic fibers can be a great option.   


About the Author

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


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A Beginner’s Guide to Mending Your Clothing
 

A Beginner’s Guide to the Visible Mending Trend

Mending clothes is a beautiful, meditative way to extend the life of your clothing, and it makes a powerful statement about your values. In this article, we’ll explore different types of clothing repair, and you’ll learn how to get started with your very own needle and thread next time your favorite sweater or pair of jeans develops a tear or a hole.

It’s taken me a while to get over the embarrassment of being the younger sibling, wearing my older sister’s hand-me-downs at school, but these days I take pride in repairing my clothes and making them last for as long as possible. 

Each item of clothing in my wardrobe tells a unique story, and the ones I love the most are usually the ones I’ve had the longest; my grandmother’s black beaded 1950s dress that I wore on my first date with my husband, the supremely comfortable and flattering pair of jeans that I bought after becoming a new mother that made me feel like myself again for the first time since my body went through so many changes. Thinking of each item in my wardrobe as an old friend helps me make the effort to extend the life of my clothing by looking after it properly and repairing it when it starts to show signs of wear and tear. 

Repairing your clothing can feel daunting if you’re not used to sewing; we tend to worry that our sewing skills aren’t up to scratch and that we’ll do it wrong or make it worse. But with a little patience and determination, learning to repair your clothes is a really empowering and creative way to build a more sustainable wardrobe. After all, as the saying goes, the most sustainable wardrobe is the one you already own.

Photo credit: Sophie Caldecott

Photo credit: Sophie Caldecott

Why Mend Your Clothes?

The polluting nature of the fashion industry is well known; it’s clear by now that if we want to play our part in fighting climate change, brands need to adopt a circular mentality that takes the end of the life of the clothing into consideration when designing new clothing. We all have a part to play in this shift away from waste; with over 11 million tons of unwanted textiles going to landfill in the US every year, we need to slow down our consumption and learn to extend the life of our clothing.

Mending clothes has become rather an endangered art form over the past few decades, as the fast fashion model of consumption often means it’s easier and cheaper to buy new clothing than to repair old clothing, and many of us aren’t learning the basic sewing skills we need to do simple repairs, like replacing buttons and darning socks. Thankfully, though, as well as the rise of circular fashion, the visible mending trend has really taken off recently, and more and more people are now taking pride in expressing their individuality and sustainable values through the quietly revolutionary act of mending their clothes.

As ethical fashion campaigner, co-founder of the Fashion Revolution movement, and author of Loved Clothes Last, Orsola de Castro wrote, “We don’t have to go far to gather the knowledge to make our clothes last longer; a small generational rewind is enough, because reusing and recycling are as old as time, the knowhow is engraved in all cultures and we are hard-wired to it – only now the benefits and implications are wider than ever.” If you don’t know where to start with clothing repairs, why not ask an older generation friend, neighbor, or relative if they remember how to sew and can teach you some basic stitches and techniques? 

What is Visible Mending Versus Invisible Mending?

Visible mending is repair work that is deliberately made visible; the repair is turned into a feature of the clothing using brightly colored or contrasting threads and patches on repaired areas of clothing.

Photo credit: Sophie Caldecott

Photo credit: Sophie Caldecott

In contrast, invisible mending is the type of clothing repair that tries not to draw attention to the area that has been mended, blending in and trying to return the item to as close to its original condition as possible, rather than making the repair or change stand out. When doing invisible mending, you’ll want to use a thread that’s as close to the color of the fabric that you’re repairing as possible, and you’ll generally use simple, small stitches, turning your clothing inside out and hiding as much of the repair work on the inside and lining of the clothing as possible.

Visible Mending Techniques

The visible mending trend encourages us to be playful with our repairs, rather than perfectionist: I started with my children’s clothing, picking pieces that were cheap and that were so badly torn or stained that I didn’t have much to lose by trying to repair them. The stakes were low, and so I could just have a play around with some brightly colored embroidery thread and have some fun trying to stitch up a hole in the knee of some trousers with a pink heart, or making a patch to cover a big stain on the front of a dress.

Photo credit: Sophie Caldecott

Photo credit: Sophie Caldecott

Somehow—to me at least—visible mending feels more accessible to someone who’s not a professional sewer, though of course different types of repairs will be appropriate for different clothing and aesthetic tastes.

One of the fun things about visible mending is that the options are limitless, and your own style will develop as you make a habit of repairing your clothing. With smaller holes and tears, you can try embroidering a shape over the area that needs repair, and for bigger areas, you can have a play around with adding patches of fabric and embroidering the edges or patterns across the patches. 

Techniques like Swiss darning can be done in contrasting color threads on holes or patches of wool that are starting to wear thin (it’s always best to start a repair before it gets too bad, rather than once a lot of the fabric has disintegrated or the hole has become too big).

Japanese culture has also had a huge influence over the visible mending movement. You may well have heard of the ancient Japanese aesthetic of Wabi Sabi designed to emphasize and celebrate the life and wear, seeing it as a way to make something more beautiful in its “imperfection” rather than something to be ashamed of. 

Two Japanese mending techniques that apply a similar principle to clothing repairs, turning the repair into something of beauty rather than something to be hidden, are called Boro and Sashiko. Boro is a type of patching that covers the area in need of repair with patches secured with neat lines of running stitch, and Sashiko stitching creates a decorative pattern that can reinforce fabric while beautifying it at the same time. In traditional Sashiko embroidery, white thread is used over indigo fabric; as Sashiko artisan Atsushi explains, “Sashiko is a form and a process of stitching to appreciate the fabric and what we have.”

Boro and Sashiko stitching can be combined to patch and add pattern to clothing that needs reinforcing and repair to make a piece of clothing last longer and give it a whole new lease of life as a beautifully embellished statement piece.

How to Get Started and What You Need In Your Sewing Kit

Taking the time to learn a few basic stitches will stand you in good stead for your clothing repairs. Embroidery artist and author Christi Johnson shares tutorials on the basics of different types of stitches, including running stitch, back stitch, stem stitch, chain stitch, blanket stitch, and more, in her free resource library.

Photo credit: Sophie Caldecott

Photo credit: Sophie Caldecott

It’s a good idea to prep your sewing kit in advance so that you have the right supplies to hand when mending your clothes. Here are some basic sewing kit supplies that will serve you well in your repairing adventures:

  • Needles: You’ll need various sizes and strengths of needle, so get a good selection pack. The tougher the fabric, the stronger the needle will need to be. Make sure whatever pack you get includes some darning needles.

  • Threads: You’ll also need a variety of threads in different colors and thicknesses. It’s a good idea to start with some basic neutral colored cotton reels, as well as a selection of colorful embroidery threads, and worsted wool.

  • Pins (and a pincushion for quick and easy access): You’ll need pins to hold any patches in place while you sew, and also to hold pieces of fabric in the right position while you repair tears.

  • Thimble: This isn’t 100% necessary, but can protect your fingers from pricks while you stitch.

  • Sewing scissors: Not all scissors are equal, and it’s important to have some sharp sewing scissors and fabric scissors to hand so you can cut your fabric and threads easily.

  • Darning mushroom: A darning mushroom can help you hold things like socks in the right shape while you do your repairs so that you don’t sew up an area only to discover it has become misshapen.

  • Embroidery hoop: Don’t underestimate the importance of an embroidery hoop while working on an area of your clothing. I tried embroidering over a stained area on my daughter’s dress without using an embroidery hoop and was really disappointed when I realized it had bunched up the fabric so that it hung wrong when she wore it afterwards. An embroidery hoop stretches the fabric you’re working on flat to avoid bunching.

  • Scraps of fabric: Start a rag bag where you can keep scraps of leftover fabric from sewing projects, or clothing that’s beyond repair but can still be cut up and used for patches. You’ll soon have a great stash for repairs and sewing projects.


10 Books on Mending Clothes to Inspire You to Repair and Re-wear

As well as YouTube videos and learning in-person from the elders in our lives, there are plenty of great books that can inspire you and support you as you learn to repair clothing.

  1. Loved Clothes Last by Orsola de Castro

  2. Mystical Stitches by Christi Johnson

  3. Visible Mending by Arounna Khounnoraj

  4. Mend and Patch by Kerstin Neumüller

  5. Wear, Repair, Repurpose by Lily Fulop

  6. The Art of Repair by Molly Martin

  7. Mending Matters by Katrina Rodabaugh

  8. Make, Thrift, Mend by Katrina Rodabaugh

  9. Mending Life by Nina and Sonya Montenegro

  10. Fix Your Clothes by Raleigh Briggs

Once you make a habit of mending your clothes you may well discover that you enjoy taking the time to indulge your creative side, developing your own style of mending that works for you and your wardrobe. And if you find you don’t have the time or patience for sewing yourself, don’t worry: mending clothes can also be outsourced. In fact, it’s a great idea to support the repair economy by finding a local tailor who can repair and alter your clothing for you.

Shifting our habits from a throwaway culture to a more sustainable culture doesn’t have to be hard; start small, and remind yourself why extending the life of your wardrobe is important to you. With a little practice and experimentation, you’re bound to discover a repair routine that works for you.


Sophie.JPG

About the Author

Sophie Caldecott is a freelance writer living in a cottage on the edge of the moor in the South-West of England. She writes about grief, empathy, ethical fashion, and the things that connect us and make us human. You’ll most likely find her cozied up by the fire with a mug of hot chocolate and a good book.



WANT TO FIND SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? VISIT OUR BRAND DIRECTORY!

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related reading you may also enjoy:

 
How to Spot High-Quality Clothing
 

A Guide to Spotting High-Quality Clothing

There is no denying that clothes play a significant role in our everyday life. Aside from their more practical function of shielding our bodies from the elements, they provide a way of expressing ourselves and boosting our mood, as they accompany us everywhere we go. 

That's why choosing the right ones can have such a significant impact. After all, we all know that sporting an outfit that feels nice and looks nice can be an easy way to make us feel on top of the world. To get that mood boost, it's essential that the clothes we wear not only match your style but are high quality too. Pieces that rip and pull as we are out and about can be a real headache. 

Nothing feels better than clothes that follow our movements and are friendly to our bodies and the Earth. Low-quality garments can have a shorter lifespan and need more care and attention on your part to stay wearable. 

We have created this guide to help you choose clothes that will stay in your closet and look sharp for a long time. Keep on reading to find out how to spot high-quality clothing.  

Check out the seams

The seams get under pressure when you put on clothes, wash them, and take them off. After all, garments aside from knitwear are essentially made of pieces of fabric cut and sewn together, and seams keep them together.  

So what characterizes a well-made seam? Hardier seams tend to have more frequent stitches in opposition to loose stitches. The latter can make a seam more prone to coming undone, shortening your garment's lifespan. Neat, flat, mess-free seams are a sign of good quality.    

A lack of a visible raw edge is a sign of thoughtfulness as well. Let's take French seams, for example. With their enclosed seam allowance, choosing them is a great way to keep the edges soft, making pieces more wearable for those bothered by harsher textures. 

Here is a little extra tip for all the thrifters out there. In lower-quality clothes, armpit seams can more easily rip because of harsher washing and overall traction. If you have eyed a second-hand piece in good conditions with weak armpit seams, you may look at a not-so-good quality garment. 

Higher quality materials often mean higher quality clothes 

For manufacturers to make beautiful, high-quality, and long-lasting clothes, they need to work in a safe environment, be given enough time to create and rest and be provided with quality, sturdy materials. To maximize profit, many fashion companies do not comply with these requirements, and the quality of their products is affected. 

Using cheaper synthetic materials like polyester or unspecified fabrics murkily labeled as "other" is usually a sign that saving on fabrics is the clothing company's priority instead of quality, longevity, and the planet.

On the other hand, using natural, organic, and eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton and Tencel is a positive sign. Generally, a company that cares about their workers' well-being and the environment is likelier to make good quality clothes as their quality and longevity are closely linked. 

Look out for “unintentional” sheerness

If you have spent any time in a location with a hot climate or a hot season, then you know how helpful it can be to have a good selection of thin, breezy clothing to get through balmy days. 

Not all sheer clothes are made to keep the wearer feeling fresh in the warm weather. A low thread count may indicate poor quality in winter clothes and pieces made for transitional weather. 

As the sheerness may also be just an intentional aesthetic choice of the designer, try to see if it is specifically mentioned in the product description and if other pieces from that brand have a higher thread count. 

Commonly, high-quality fabrics, which are the building blocks of high-quality clothes, tend to be more tightly knit. This characteristic gives them a denser appearance and heavier feel, which allows them to fall beautifully on your body when worn.   

P.S. Keep in mind that, regardless of whether or not the sheerness of the piece is intentional, thin garments tend to be higher maintenance, so wash them and handle them carefully to keep them looking and feeling their best on you for as long as possible. 

Don't forget to check out the tags 

If you are someone who is trying to lower their individual impact and support good businesses, chances are you are an avid reader of tags, product descriptions, and ingredients lists. After all, as buyers, it is only reasonable for us to want to know more about what we are purchasing, and the people who do business ethically won't have a problem being transparent. 

So checking clothing tags out is a smart move and can be a good habit to build. A simple tag will tell you how much information the company is comfortable sharing with you. Plus, if you read the signs, it may also let you know how much thought and care went into making that garment. 

Let's go through a brief checklist, shall we? Let's start with the tag's material. Did the company state anywhere what its fabric is? Is the tag soft, or does it feel scratchy and rough against your skin? Transparency and care for the customers' comfort and well-being are both positive signs. 

The tag's function is to give you essential information about the product and how to take care of it. Were you provided all the info you might need, or did the fashion company leave you in the dark? Adding extra buttons, or maybe even additional thread, can signify that the piece was designed with longevity in mind, making repairing it much easier for you. 

Trust your body 

The sizing of ready-to-wear clothes can be confusing and often downright absurd. Two people who wear the same clothing size may have completely different body proportions. It can be hard, especially when shopping online, to figure out if a specific piece of clothing will fit and feel good on our bodies. The result is that many of us have purchased and worn clothes that, despite technically being our size, were incredibly ill-fitting. 

These accidents result from whack sizing but also poor cut, poor choice of fabric, and poor fit. A garment in your size should give you enough room to breathe properly and move around. If the fabric pulls or the garment constricts your body, it may be a sign of poor quality.       

Sometimes stiffness can be expected, like in the case of brand new, non-stretchy jeans. Still, high-quality, thoughtfully designed clothes are made to accommodate the proportions of various body types. So trust your body when choosing well-made clothes: it can be a tremendous compass!   

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The print trick 

Beautifully-designed prints have the power of making a garment feel extra special, giving even simpler pieces that wow factor. Aside from their clearer aesthetic function of providing oomph to clothing, prints can also be used to help you figure out how much a fashion company is willing to invest into making high-quality clothes. 

In many cases, the fabrics embellished with prints can be pricier for fashion companies to purchase. Therefore, printed garments are often lower quality and more poorly made than those coming in a solid color as companies try to balance out the print's cost. 

So if you find a print garment that doesn't present a needlessly thin or loosely knit fabric, doesn't have twisted seams, and its pattern does match up at the seams, then you are in luck. Because chances are that this piece is not only specifically high-quality, but it's more likely that the brand is committed to making quality garments as a whole.  

 Don't get fooled by the price

This advice may seem like a no-brainer to some, but it's vital to remember that high quality doesn't always have a high price and vice-versa. As a lot goes into making and selling clothing, many factors determine the price of a garment, so the quality level of its materials and the time that went into manufacturing aren’t the sole determiners.   

If a company overcharges, you may end up paying for a mediocre-quality garment more than it is worth. Conversely, you can still get good-quality clothes for reasonable prices. Regardless of your clothing budget, know that there can be discrepancies between a garment's quality and cost. 

So pay more attention to the looks and feel of the piece you are looking at when trying to determine its quality level, rather than just basing your decision on its price tag, as you may find a better quality piece for the same price. 

By buying well-made clothes, you save yourself time and money, and it's also an exercise of mindfulness that can help you develop your personal style and avoid impulse buying. Ultimately, learning what makes a high-quality garment can also give you a better understanding of how clothes are made and a deeper appreciation for the talented, skilled people that make the pieces we love.     


About the Author:

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


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What is Cork & How Is It Sustainable?
 

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Cork & Sustainability

When I think cork, I think wine, and I bet it’s not just me. But have you ever thought of cork outside of working it out of your way to enjoy a nice glass of red? Have you thought of where it goes after you finish that bottle? Or where it comes from? It turns out cork is actually *super* cool and equally as sustainable. This natural material is a powerhouse, a master of all trades, an overachiever. So, pop that cork and pour yourself a glass, and settle in for a little lesson on what cork has done for humanity.

What is Cork?

First of all, we gotta know what cork is, exactly. Cork is an extremely versatile, naturally occurring material that actually comes from a tree, specifically the outer bark of a mature cork oak. These cork oak forests, which are commonly found in theMediterranean, are important parts of the economic and environmental ecosystems they exist within. According to Amorim Cork Composites, “over 200 animal species and 135 plant species find ideal conditions for survival in the cork oak forest.” In addition to supporting such a biodiverse environment, the cork oak forests also absorb large amounts of carbon dioxide and protect against soil erosion and fire hazards since it’s such a low-combustible material. 

Portugal, which hosts the largest amount of cork oak forests in the world and is responsible for half of the world’s cork production, has hundreds of companies that are directly linked to the forests. There are a plethora of ways these businesses rely on the cork oak forest, whether they are in charge of harvesting, storing, processing, or using the cork, or working with other aspects of the forest, like ecotourism. These forests have been creating and sustaining thousands of jobs for people for many, many years. 

Sustainably Chic | Sustainable Fashion & Lifestyle Blog | What is Cork? | How is Cork Made?.jpg

How is cork made?

So how exactly does cork go from tree bark to a wine cork? It’s quite fascinating, actually. The outer layer of bark is stripped multiple times over the course of decades, and each time a layer is removed, a different cork product is created. The first removal results in “virgin cork” and only occurs after the tree has fully matured, which takes about 25 years. The second stripping results in “secunderia cork”. These two products are then used in a variety of ways, from insulation for housing to items in the fashion industry. Finally, after nearly fifty years, the third removal results in the highest quality of cork, “amadia cork” which you’re most familiar with as wine stoppers.  

Each harvest occurs every nine years or so during the spring to summer months, when the tree is experiencing the most growth. A cork tree is never cut down during harvest, so harvesting during its growth season ensures that the tree isn’t harmed, so it can continue maturing and producing cork for years to come. As we, as a society, are increasingly searching for sustainable alternatives, it’s important to look at the whole picture of how these products are created and how they play different roles within our lives.

What can cork do (or is the better question, what *can’t* it do?)

Cork works wonders at insulating due to the tiny bits of air within each cell. And we’re not just talking about typical insulation like you would think of in a home. Cork has gone to *space*, insulating rockets and spaceships since the 1960s! It’s also used for acoustic and thermal insulation and vibration absorption all across the construction industry - from flooring to boats to railways to skyscrapers. 

The air in each cell also lends elasticity to the material that others lack, which makes it extremely lightweight but also durable and able to withstand high amounts of pressure and temperature. This durability can help it extend the life of other machines, like car engines and electrical power plants; technology that mixes cork with other materials, like rubber, has led to massive improvements across multiple industries. Its superstar composition doesn't stop there; because of cork’s non-absorptive properties, it is mold-resistant and hypo-allergenic, which means it can stand the test of time since it doesn’t deteriorate as quickly as other materials.  

On the other side of the coin, cork is also consumer-friendly! Yoga blocks, chairs, fruit bowls, wallpaper, shoes - cork can do it all! We also consume cork products when watching movies, believe it or not! Props made of cork are lightweight and easy to move around or, you know, blow up in action scenes!This natural material is taking the consumer industry by storm as more and more people recognize that its versatility doesn’t sacrifice its sustainability. 

Why cork deserves to be in your life (and probably already is!)

Cork is an incredibly sustainable product in and of itself. In addition to that, it can also benefit your health and home. Since it’s a non-absorptive, hypoallergenic, heat/fire-resistant material, it can bring peace of mind into your home. Installing cork flooring or insulation in your home could not only benefit the environment but end up protecting you and your property for much longer than other alternatives.

On a lighter note, although there hasn’t been extensive research done, studies have found that cork wine-stoppers have imparted antioxidant benefits into wine. Cheers to that, and hopefully some more research!

Around your house, cork should always be welcome and easy to incorporate. It’s biodegradable, recyclable, and backyard-compostable. A triple threat, if you will! If you’re looking to recycle your cork within the U.S.A., check out ReCORK’s website. Along with tons of info about cork, they also have cork recycling locations available to search.

Since it is such a versatile product, cork can be used in a multitude of different ways in your daily life. You could wake up and walk along your cork insulated floors. You could slip on your sneakers with cork insoles. You could grab your cork wristlet on your way out the door. You could drive to the market and have your car engine being supported by cork. You could pick up a bottle of wine with a cork that supports cork farmers in Portugal. You could go to a yoga mat and use your cork mat and cork roller. Then head home and not need to turn on your heater/a/c because your walls are more temperature regulated due to the cork insulation. You could pour yourself a glass of wine and not even consciously think about how incorporated cork already is in your life-What a subtle little sustainable powerhouse. 

So cork is awesome, but is it too good to be true? Is there something we haven’t told you that will ruin cork forever? Short answer: no. Pinch yourself all you want; cork is cool! And for anyone worrying about the cork oak trees, wondering if they should just be left to their own devices, they actually are able to help their surrounding environment more after each harvesting process. According to a 2005 study by Luis Gil that Tiny Eco Home Life covered, it was “found that a harvested cork oak tree absorbs three to five times more CO2 than one that is not harvested.” And to repeat this very important fact: cork oak trees are NOT cut down to harvest the cork. Most trees live over 300 years, providing for people and the planet the whole time.

As this product becomes more and more popular with the trend toward sustainable alternatives, it will be increasingly easy to incorporate this super product into your daily life. 

Our Favorite Sustainable Cork brands & products

Svala

This sustainable handbag brand uses cork to create totes, backpacks, purses, and wallets. You may be relatively familiar with their Pinatex (pineapple leather) handbags we showcase on Sustainably Chic, and their cork products are just as lovely and of high quality. What we love about a cork handbag is that it can literally go with any outfit. It’s that perfect neutral color.

EarthHero

This sustainable online marketplace is home to several cork products. You can find cork yoga mats (like the one pictured here), pens for the office, desk mats, coasters, and even cork massage balls. It’s great to have one place to go to find many different sustainable cork products under one roof, so be sure to check it out from time to time to see if anything new has been added!

Made Trade

Another wonderful stop to make for all things cork. Made Trade is one of the best destinations for sustainable fashion and home decor. You can easily shop your values, and their aesthetic is worth checking out. We’ve linked up the cork products for you, and they have a ton for you to choose from. These adorable recycled bamboo storage jars are just one of the exciting cork products!


Conclusion

I’m so glad that I stopped for a moment and thought past the wine stopper. That curiosity about cork has been sated, and in its place rests a deep appreciation for this natural product and all it’s done and will do in the future. Mother Nature really thinks of everything, doesn’t she?


Paige Annelayne is a freelance writer and digital media specialist currently based in Alabama, who loves to cook, learn about intersectional sustainability, and read a lot of books. Her cat, Gnocchi, her plants, and a good cup of matcha bring her joy. You can connect with Paige on Instagram @vitality.blog and at www.vtltyblog.com


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WANT MORE SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? VISIT OUR BRAND DIRECTORY!

Our Brand Directory is home to hundreds of sustainable brands, from makeup to cleaning supplies, from underwear to shoes. We have broken everything down by category for easy shopping, along with discount codes unique to Sustainably Chic viewers.


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