Posts in Fabrics & Certifications
How to Spot High-Quality Clothing
 

A Guide to Spotting High-Quality Clothing

There is no denying that clothes play a significant role in our everyday life. Aside from their more practical function of shielding our bodies from the elements, they provide a way of expressing ourselves and boosting our mood, as they accompany us everywhere we go. 

That's why choosing the right ones can have such a significant impact. After all, we all know that sporting an outfit that feels nice and looks nice can be an easy way to make us feel on top of the world. To get that mood boost, it's essential that the clothes we wear not only match your style but are high quality too. Pieces that rip and pull as we are out and about can be a real headache. 

Nothing feels better than clothes that follow our movements and are friendly to our bodies and the Earth. Low-quality garments can have a shorter lifespan and need more care and attention on your part to stay wearable. 

We have created this guide to help you choose clothes that will stay in your closet and look sharp for a long time. Keep on reading to find out how to spot high-quality clothing.  

Check out the seams

The seams get under pressure when you put on clothes, wash them, and take them off. After all, garments aside from knitwear are essentially made of pieces of fabric cut and sewn together, and seams keep them together.  

So what characterizes a well-made seam? Hardier seams tend to have more frequent stitches in opposition to loose stitches. The latter can make a seam more prone to coming undone, shortening your garment's lifespan. Neat, flat, mess-free seams are a sign of good quality.    

A lack of a visible raw edge is a sign of thoughtfulness as well. Let's take French seams, for example. With their enclosed seam allowance, choosing them is a great way to keep the edges soft, making pieces more wearable for those bothered by harsher textures. 

Here is a little extra tip for all the thrifters out there. In lower-quality clothes, armpit seams can more easily rip because of harsher washing and overall traction. If you have eyed a second-hand piece in good conditions with weak armpit seams, you may look at a not-so-good quality garment. 

Higher quality materials often mean higher quality clothes 

For manufacturers to make beautiful, high-quality, and long-lasting clothes, they need to work in a safe environment, be given enough time to create and rest and be provided with quality, sturdy materials. To maximize profit, many fashion companies do not comply with these requirements, and the quality of their products is affected. 

Using cheaper synthetic materials like polyester or unspecified fabrics murkily labeled as "other" is usually a sign that saving on fabrics is the clothing company's priority instead of quality, longevity, and the planet.

On the other hand, using natural, organic, and eco-friendly materials such as organic cotton and Tencel is a positive sign. Generally, a company that cares about their workers' well-being and the environment is likelier to make good quality clothes as their quality and longevity are closely linked. 

Look out for “unintentional” sheerness

If you have spent any time in a location with a hot climate or a hot season, then you know how helpful it can be to have a good selection of thin, breezy clothing to get through balmy days. 

Not all sheer clothes are made to keep the wearer feeling fresh in the warm weather. A low thread count may indicate poor quality in winter clothes and pieces made for transitional weather. 

As the sheerness may also be just an intentional aesthetic choice of the designer, try to see if it is specifically mentioned in the product description and if other pieces from that brand have a higher thread count. 

Commonly, high-quality fabrics, which are the building blocks of high-quality clothes, tend to be more tightly knit. This characteristic gives them a denser appearance and heavier feel, which allows them to fall beautifully on your body when worn.   

P.S. Keep in mind that, regardless of whether or not the sheerness of the piece is intentional, thin garments tend to be higher maintenance, so wash them and handle them carefully to keep them looking and feeling their best on you for as long as possible. 

Don't forget to check out the tags 

If you are someone who is trying to lower their individual impact and support good businesses, chances are you are an avid reader of tags, product descriptions, and ingredients lists. After all, as buyers, it is only reasonable for us to want to know more about what we are purchasing, and the people who do business ethically won't have a problem being transparent. 

So checking clothing tags out is a smart move and can be a good habit to build. A simple tag will tell you how much information the company is comfortable sharing with you. Plus, if you read the signs, it may also let you know how much thought and care went into making that garment. 

Let's go through a brief checklist, shall we? Let's start with the tag's material. Did the company state anywhere what its fabric is? Is the tag soft, or does it feel scratchy and rough against your skin? Transparency and care for the customers' comfort and well-being are both positive signs. 

The tag's function is to give you essential information about the product and how to take care of it. Were you provided all the info you might need, or did the fashion company leave you in the dark? Adding extra buttons, or maybe even additional thread, can signify that the piece was designed with longevity in mind, making repairing it much easier for you. 

Trust your body 

The sizing of ready-to-wear clothes can be confusing and often downright absurd. Two people who wear the same clothing size may have completely different body proportions. It can be hard, especially when shopping online, to figure out if a specific piece of clothing will fit and feel good on our bodies. The result is that many of us have purchased and worn clothes that, despite technically being our size, were incredibly ill-fitting. 

These accidents result from whack sizing but also poor cut, poor choice of fabric, and poor fit. A garment in your size should give you enough room to breathe properly and move around. If the fabric pulls or the garment constricts your body, it may be a sign of poor quality.       

Sometimes stiffness can be expected, like in the case of brand new, non-stretchy jeans. Still, high-quality, thoughtfully designed clothes are made to accommodate the proportions of various body types. So trust your body when choosing well-made clothes: it can be a tremendous compass!   

image: WVN *this is an affiliate link - we only show brands we truly love!

The print trick 

Beautifully-designed prints have the power of making a garment feel extra special, giving even simpler pieces that wow factor. Aside from their clearer aesthetic function of providing oomph to clothing, prints can also be used to help you figure out how much a fashion company is willing to invest into making high-quality clothes. 

In many cases, the fabrics embellished with prints can be pricier for fashion companies to purchase. Therefore, printed garments are often lower quality and more poorly made than those coming in a solid color as companies try to balance out the print's cost. 

So if you find a print garment that doesn't present a needlessly thin or loosely knit fabric, doesn't have twisted seams, and its pattern does match up at the seams, then you are in luck. Because chances are that this piece is not only specifically high-quality, but it's more likely that the brand is committed to making quality garments as a whole.  

 Don't get fooled by the price

This advice may seem like a no-brainer to some, but it's vital to remember that high quality doesn't always have a high price and vice-versa. As a lot goes into making and selling clothing, many factors determine the price of a garment, so the quality level of its materials and the time that went into manufacturing aren’t the sole determiners.   

If a company overcharges, you may end up paying for a mediocre-quality garment more than it is worth. Conversely, you can still get good-quality clothes for reasonable prices. Regardless of your clothing budget, know that there can be discrepancies between a garment's quality and cost. 

So pay more attention to the looks and feel of the piece you are looking at when trying to determine its quality level, rather than just basing your decision on its price tag, as you may find a better quality piece for the same price. 

By buying well-made clothes, you save yourself time and money, and it's also an exercise of mindfulness that can help you develop your personal style and avoid impulse buying. Ultimately, learning what makes a high-quality garment can also give you a better understanding of how clothes are made and a deeper appreciation for the talented, skilled people that make the pieces we love.     


About the Author:

Roberta Fabbrocino is a journalist specialized in climate change and sustainability-related topics. Her articles have been published in several international eco-publications. Roberta also works as a content writer for sustainable companies.


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What is Cork & How Is It Sustainable?
 

Image: Svala

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Cork & Sustainability

When I think cork, I think wine, and I bet it’s not just me. But have you ever thought of cork outside of working it out of your way to enjoy a nice glass of red? Have you thought of where it goes after you finish that bottle? Or where it comes from? It turns out cork is actually *super* cool and equally as sustainable. This natural material is a powerhouse, a master of all trades, an overachiever. So, pop that cork and pour yourself a glass, and settle in for a little lesson on what cork has done for humanity.

What is Cork?

First of all, we gotta know what cork is, exactly. Cork is an extremely versatile, naturally occurring material that actually comes from a tree, specifically the outer bark of a mature cork oak. These cork oak forests, which are commonly found in theMediterranean, are important parts of the economic and environmental ecosystems they exist within. According to Amorim Cork Composites, “over 200 animal species and 135 plant species find ideal conditions for survival in the cork oak forest.” In addition to supporting such a biodiverse environment, the cork oak forests also absorb large amounts of carbon dioxide and protect against soil erosion and fire hazards since it’s such a low-combustible material. 

Portugal, which hosts the largest amount of cork oak forests in the world and is responsible for half of the world’s cork production, has hundreds of companies that are directly linked to the forests. There are a plethora of ways these businesses rely on the cork oak forest, whether they are in charge of harvesting, storing, processing, or using the cork, or working with other aspects of the forest, like ecotourism. These forests have been creating and sustaining thousands of jobs for people for many, many years. 

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How is cork made?

So how exactly does cork go from tree bark to a wine cork? It’s quite fascinating, actually. The outer layer of bark is stripped multiple times over the course of decades, and each time a layer is removed, a different cork product is created. The first removal results in “virgin cork” and only occurs after the tree has fully matured, which takes about 25 years. The second stripping results in “secunderia cork”. These two products are then used in a variety of ways, from insulation for housing to items in the fashion industry. Finally, after nearly fifty years, the third removal results in the highest quality of cork, “amadia cork” which you’re most familiar with as wine stoppers.  

Each harvest occurs every nine years or so during the spring to summer months, when the tree is experiencing the most growth. A cork tree is never cut down during harvest, so harvesting during its growth season ensures that the tree isn’t harmed, so it can continue maturing and producing cork for years to come. As we, as a society, are increasingly searching for sustainable alternatives, it’s important to look at the whole picture of how these products are created and how they play different roles within our lives.

What can cork do (or is the better question, what *can’t* it do?)

Cork works wonders at insulating due to the tiny bits of air within each cell. And we’re not just talking about typical insulation like you would think of in a home. Cork has gone to *space*, insulating rockets and spaceships since the 1960s! It’s also used for acoustic and thermal insulation and vibration absorption all across the construction industry - from flooring to boats to railways to skyscrapers. 

The air in each cell also lends elasticity to the material that others lack, which makes it extremely lightweight but also durable and able to withstand high amounts of pressure and temperature. This durability can help it extend the life of other machines, like car engines and electrical power plants; technology that mixes cork with other materials, like rubber, has led to massive improvements across multiple industries. Its superstar composition doesn't stop there; because of cork’s non-absorptive properties, it is mold-resistant and hypo-allergenic, which means it can stand the test of time since it doesn’t deteriorate as quickly as other materials.  

On the other side of the coin, cork is also consumer-friendly! Yoga blocks, chairs, fruit bowls, wallpaper, shoes - cork can do it all! We also consume cork products when watching movies, believe it or not! Props made of cork are lightweight and easy to move around or, you know, blow up in action scenes!This natural material is taking the consumer industry by storm as more and more people recognize that its versatility doesn’t sacrifice its sustainability. 

Why cork deserves to be in your life (and probably already is!)

Cork is an incredibly sustainable product in and of itself. In addition to that, it can also benefit your health and home. Since it’s a non-absorptive, hypoallergenic, heat/fire-resistant material, it can bring peace of mind into your home. Installing cork flooring or insulation in your home could not only benefit the environment but end up protecting you and your property for much longer than other alternatives.

On a lighter note, although there hasn’t been extensive research done, studies have found that cork wine-stoppers have imparted antioxidant benefits into wine. Cheers to that, and hopefully some more research!

Around your house, cork should always be welcome and easy to incorporate. It’s biodegradable, recyclable, and backyard-compostable. A triple threat, if you will! If you’re looking to recycle your cork within the U.S.A., check out ReCORK’s website. Along with tons of info about cork, they also have cork recycling locations available to search.

Since it is such a versatile product, cork can be used in a multitude of different ways in your daily life. You could wake up and walk along your cork insulated floors. You could slip on your sneakers with cork insoles. You could grab your cork wristlet on your way out the door. You could drive to the market and have your car engine being supported by cork. You could pick up a bottle of wine with a cork that supports cork farmers in Portugal. You could go to a yoga mat and use your cork mat and cork roller. Then head home and not need to turn on your heater/a/c because your walls are more temperature regulated due to the cork insulation. You could pour yourself a glass of wine and not even consciously think about how incorporated cork already is in your life-What a subtle little sustainable powerhouse. 

So cork is awesome, but is it too good to be true? Is there something we haven’t told you that will ruin cork forever? Short answer: no. Pinch yourself all you want; cork is cool! And for anyone worrying about the cork oak trees, wondering if they should just be left to their own devices, they actually are able to help their surrounding environment more after each harvesting process. According to a 2005 study by Luis Gil that Tiny Eco Home Life covered, it was “found that a harvested cork oak tree absorbs three to five times more CO2 than one that is not harvested.” And to repeat this very important fact: cork oak trees are NOT cut down to harvest the cork. Most trees live over 300 years, providing for people and the planet the whole time.

As this product becomes more and more popular with the trend toward sustainable alternatives, it will be increasingly easy to incorporate this super product into your daily life. 

Our Favorite Sustainable Cork brands & products

Svala

This sustainable handbag brand uses cork to create totes, backpacks, purses, and wallets. You may be relatively familiar with their Pinatex (pineapple leather) handbags we showcase on Sustainably Chic, and their cork products are just as lovely and of high quality. What we love about a cork handbag is that it can literally go with any outfit. It’s that perfect neutral color.

EarthHero

This sustainable online marketplace is home to several cork products. You can find cork yoga mats (like the one pictured here), pens for the office, desk mats, coasters, and even cork massage balls. It’s great to have one place to go to find many different sustainable cork products under one roof, so be sure to check it out from time to time to see if anything new has been added!

Made Trade

Another wonderful stop to make for all things cork. Made Trade is one of the best destinations for sustainable fashion and home decor. You can easily shop your values, and their aesthetic is worth checking out. We’ve linked up the cork products for you, and they have a ton for you to choose from. These adorable recycled bamboo storage jars are just one of the exciting cork products!


Conclusion

I’m so glad that I stopped for a moment and thought past the wine stopper. That curiosity about cork has been sated, and in its place rests a deep appreciation for this natural product and all it’s done and will do in the future. Mother Nature really thinks of everything, doesn’t she?


Paige Annelayne is a freelance writer and digital media specialist currently based in Alabama, who loves to cook, learn about intersectional sustainability, and read a lot of books. Her cat, Gnocchi, her plants, and a good cup of matcha bring her joy. You can connect with Paige on Instagram @vitality.blog and at www.vtltyblog.com


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What is Viscose and Is It Always Unsustainable?
 

Disclosure: Some of the links below are affiliated; we may earn a small commission if you click through and make a purchase. We only ever add brands & products we truly believe in.

What is Viscose?

Viscose is a human-made material that’s partially synthetic, and made of trees. Sometimes it’s labelled as at least somewhat sustainable due to its woody beginnings, and other times, it’s called out as totally harmful for the planet – so how is viscose really made, and how does this process really impact the planet?

What is viscose used for?

Viscose is a fairly silky, draped fabric that is often used by brands seeking a cheaper version of animal-derived silk. In the realm of fashion, it’s common to see it in women’s blouses, skirts, and flowing dresses, and even making up partially synthetic velvet. 

It’s considered a lightweight and breathable material that maintains shape, is absorbent, soft and dye-fast. This makes it fabric that is widely used when it comes to printed fabrics and summer collections.

What is viscose made of?

Viscose is a cellulose material – like Tencel – meaning it is made from wood pulp. In the case of viscose, this ‘wood’ is from beech, pine, and eucalyptus trees much of the time, but it can also be made of bamboo and even soy or sugarcane.

One of the reasons Tencel is great is because of one particularly unsustainable aspect of viscose production: old-growth forest logging. Canopy, an organization dedicated to protecting forests, has found that for the production of viscose and rayon (essentially the same material), more than 200 million trees are logged each year. If these trees were placed end to end, they would circle our planet seven times! 

While Tencel uses wood from certified sustainably managed sources, this is too often not the case for viscose. Less than 20% of the world’s ancient forests remain in intact tracts large enough to maintain critical biological diversity. Yet, forests in Indonesia, Canada’s Boreal and temperate rainforests, and the Amazon are being logged for fast and even luxury fashion. In fact, it’s estimated that 30% of viscose and rayon used in fashion is made from endangered and ancient forests which once were home to native plants and animals. 

If fashion brands and people wearing viscose don’t know where the raw material behind it (the wood) is coming from, sadly, it may be from destroyed endangered forestry.

How is viscose normally made?

Once trees have been cut down, they are chopped into small pieces before being dissolved into a pulp. This is where viscose becomes semi-synthetic, as this is a very chemical-heavy process. Sodium hydroxide, carbon disulfide, and sulphuric acid are all used in this process and are all considered toxic.

Sodium hydroxide is highly irritating and corrosive, resulting in severe burns and permanent damage when it comes in contact with human tissue, including the eyes, which can also be permanently harmed and impaired due to exposure. In the case of carbon disulphide, evidence has suggested that exposure to this chemical by factory workers – as well as people living near viscose production facilities – can cause coronary heart diseasebirth defects, skin conditions and even cancer. Meanwhile, sulphuric acid can cause severe skin burns, irritate the nose and throat, burn eyes, possibly cause blindness and difficulty breathing when inhaled by workers. 

These toxic chemicals – amongst others – are used together in order to dissolve the wood chips into pulp, clean and bleach the pulp, and treat the pulp so that the solution, known as ‘viscose’, is produced. This viscose solution is then run through a spinneret, a machine that creates filaments or fibers. Finally, this cellulosic fiber can be spun into yarn and then made into fabrics used in fashion. 

This chemical process can lead not only to poor health outcomes for workers, but often, to significant air and water pollution. Air emissions around viscose manufacturing facilities often include sulfur, nitrous oxide, carbon, disulfide, and hydrogen sulfide. 

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Can viscose ever be made sustainably?

While viscose is biodegradable, meaning it won’t pile up in landfill for thousands of years like polyester or another completely synthetic fabric, this alone doesn’t mean that it is sustainable. Deforestation and chemical pollution are serious issues, and the process of making viscose can also be highly water intensive – from the watering of growing trees to the significant water requirements during processing. 

Fortunately, there are other ways to make viscose that are more sustainable. These processes are more expensive, so brands need to make clear commitments to prioritise the environment over profit, should they choose them. Since there’s no fashion if there’s no planet Earth, this should be an easy decision!

The previously mentioned Canopy non-profit produces an annual CanopyStyle report, which lays out the newest innovations and next-generation fibers in the textile space, that should allow us all to keep in line with set sustainability targets.

Certified Safer Logging

A great question to ask brands using viscose, is ‘where did the raw material come from?’. If brands can’t answer this for you, and if they can’t assure that the sourcing was responsible, according to a third-party accreditation, this is a real concern.

CanopyStyle offers brands plenty of information as to how they can source viscose responsibly. Brands that are a part of the CanopyStyle certification and program are also audited to ensure that ancient and endangered forests are protected from destruction. These better materials are considered ‘green-shirt’ rated.

Responsible, Closed-Loop Processing

Lenzing, the company that creates Tencel in a closed-loop system, also makes Ecovero, a viscose material derived from ‘certified renewable wood sources using an eco-responsible production process by meeting high environmental standards’.

Awarded the EU Ecolabel, Ecovero is manufactured with up to 50% fewer emissions and water impact than generic viscose. Importantly, Ecovero is also produced in a closed-loop, meaning that no harmful gases are released into the environment and are instead recovered, converted, and reused as raw materials.

Ecovero is made in a highly transparent supply chain, so brands can offer all the information that people deserve to know, about how this material was made, where, and from what.

Next-Generation Fibers, Made From Old Material

In order to combat deforestation, we cannot only rely on ‘sustainable sourcing’ of wood, from non-protected trees and forestry. We need to use less new raw materials in general. Fortunately, we don’t need to cut down so many trees in order to keep on making clothing.

Our current fashion system is one built upon overproduction, overconsumption, and waste. Because of this, more than an enormous 25 million tonnes of cotton and viscose textile waste is generated annually around the world. While we also need to slow down how we produce and consume, today, we can make use of this waste by creating viscose that is, at the very least, partially recycled. 

In fact, Canopy states that ‘all 6.5 million tonnes of viscose being produced this year could be made using only 25% of the world’s wasted and discarded cotton and viscose fabrics, thereby saving forests, reducing municipal and industrial waste to landfills, and reducing carbon emissions, energy, and water use.’ What an opportunity!

Brands using more sustainable viscose

There are plenty of brands working with both Canopy and Lenzing to ensure their viscose is more sustainable, and free from harm to precious biodiversity. Here are some of our favourites, that also ensure ethical production, when it comes to the people making their clothes.

Eileen Fisher

A trailblazing brand when it comes to transparency and ethics, Eileen Fisher has a collection of viscose and rayon styles that are largely sourced from responsibly managed, legally harvested forests. What’s more, the brand is supporting the research and development of recycled cellulose materials. The offerings from this brand, in cellulosic materials, include cardigans, pullovers, dresses, t-shirts, comfortable pants, and even velvet tops, dresses and jackets.


Stella McCartney

This brand, famous for its animal-friendly refusal to use animal skins, is also committed to being a ‘zero-deforestation brand’. Since 2017, all viscose in Stella McCartney’s ready-to-wear collection has been from sustainably managed and certified forests in Sweden. Stella McCartney offers up a range of dresses, shorts, shirts, jackets, pants and co-ord suits in their more sustainable viscose material.


Brava Fabrics

Showcased in our brand features this past Spring, Brava Fabrics creates beautiful patterns and colors on Ecovero shirts, pants, and skirts.

They ethically produce everything close to home in Spain and Portugal.

Brava Fabrics believe in fairness & transparency throughout the entire supply chain, so they keep a close relationship with all of their tailors.


Amour Vert

Another great sustainable brand using Ecovero for lovely, vibrant prints and designs!

This brand uses a lot of sustainable fabrics like TENCEL, Organic Cotton, & Hemp - and it’s great to see a few Ecovero pieces thrown into the mix.

Amour Vert makes 97% of their clothing right here in the US, and their packaging is eco-friendly & compostable.


Tamga Designs

TAMGA offers beautiful feminine clothing with colorful & vibrant designs. Whether you’re lounging around the house in one of their silky soft robes or headed out to a party in one of their evening dresses, you’ll love the way their fabrics and designs feel and look.

Everything is made ethically in Indonesia from sustainable materials like TENCEL, EcoVero, and French Linen.


About the Author
Emma Håkansson is the founder and director of Collective Fashion Justice which seeks to create a total ethics fashion system that prioritizes the life and wellbeing of non-human & human animals, as well as the planet, before profit & production. She has written countless articles on ethics, sustainability, and fashion, and has two books due out over the next two years.


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WANT MORE SUSTAINABLE BRANDS? VISIT OUR BRAND DIRECTORY!

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related reading you may also enjoy:

 
What is Polyester? (& its sustainable alternatives)
 

What is polyester?

When I think about polyester, the images that come to mind are bright power-suits from the 80’s and cheap clothes from fast fashion brands. We know that it is an unsustainable fabric and should be avoided where possible, but what is it actually made from and what makes it so bad for the environment? It’s important to know the facts behind fabrics so we can make more informed choices when we shop, so let’s find out more about polyester!

The Science Behind the Fabric

Polyester is a chemical term which can be broken into poly (many), and ester (a basic organic chemical compound). The main ingredient used in the production of polyester is ethylene, which is derived from petroleum. In this process, ethylene is the polymer, the chemical building block of polyester, and the chemical process that produces the finished polyester is called “polymerization”.

A synthetic fiber derived from coal, air, water, and petroleum, polyester fibers are formed from a chemical reaction between an acid and alcohol. In this reaction, two or more molecules combine to make a large molecule whose structure repeats throughout its length. Polyester fibers can form very long molecules that are very stable and strong.

A brief history of polyester

Wallace Hume Carothers was an American chemist, inventor and the leader of organic chemistry at DuPont, an American chemical company. During the mid-1930s Carothers discovered that he could create fibers by mixing carboxylic acids and alcohols, and ‘stumbled’ upon Nylon, which is still a popular fabric used today. In 1939, two British scientists, W.K. Birtwhistle and C.G. Ritchie continued Carothers work and by 1941 the first polyester fiber was developed, called Terylene. DuPont bought the rights from the two scientists and later came up with their own polyester fiber called Dacron. 

Unlike natural fabrics like wool and cotton, polyester was created out of scientific research and was marketed accordingly. Announced to the American public in 1951, polyester’s main selling point was that it could be “worn for 68 days straight without ironing, and still look presentable”. This had a huge appeal to women, who at the time were the primary homemakers, leading to the soaring popularity of the fabric.

Polyester is now the most widely used fiber in the world, accounting for roughly half of the overall fiber market and around 80% of synthetics fiber, according to the Textile Exchange Preferred Fiber Materials Report 2017. In 2016, polyester fiber production was estimated at 52 million metric tons.

Where do you find polyester?

Polyester is used in the manufacturing of many products, including clothing, home furnishings, industrial fabrics, and electrical insulation. Polyester is light, strong and easily dyed, can be woven or knitted and is easily blended with other fibres. In fashion polyester is an incredibly versatile fabric that can be used to make anything from activewear to bridalwear. 

Another form of polyester used in fashion is poly-blends. Originally, this referred to combining two or more different poly materials to make a separate material, but is now commonly used to refer to the blending of polyester fibres and natural ones. Poly-cotton, linen blends and terrycot (a blend of terylene and cotton) are common poly-blends used in fashion.

What makes polyester unsustainable?

While polyester is a synthetic fiber, its raw materials are technically natural. Most polyester is made out of petroleum, a non-renewable carbon-intensive resource. Petroleum, also known as crude oil and oil, is a naturally occurring, yellowish-black liquid found in geological formations beneath the Earth's surface. We are currently using up petroleum much faster than it can be produced in nature, and some predictions suggest we will reach maximum extraction by 2030. According to A New Textiles Economy Report 2017, producing plastic-based fibers for textiles uses an estimated 342 million barrels of oil each year.

Polyester has often been considered more sustainable from a consumer care standpoint as polyester garments last a really long time and require less water, energy and heat for washing. But because the fabric is designed to last for so long, it takes more than 200 years to decompose. While this wouldn’t be as much of an issue if we could guarantee clothes are not thrown away, around 85% of all textiles thrown away in the U.S., roughly 13 million tonnes in 2017, are either dumped into landfills or burned.

During a polyester product’s lifecycle, there are environmental implications. For example, hundreds of thousands of microfibers are released into the wastewater when we wash synthetic and natural clothes. The jury is still out on how harmful the natural microfibers are, but we now know that plastic microfibers are being ingested by marine life, animals and even humans. Each cycle of a washing machine could release more than 700,000 microscopic plastic fibers into the environment. While the full extent and impact of these microplastics are not yet clear, it is clear that the problem is widespread (microplastics have been found all around the world) and could have detrimental impacts to plant, animal, and human health.

The limitations of recycling are another factor that makes polyester clothes unsustainable. Most polyester used in clothing currently is virgin polyester, and while there are recycling options for used clothing, less than 1% of collected textiles are recycled back into clothing or textile use. Most of the recycled polyester currently used by leading fashion brands comes from plastic bottles rather than old clothing. In addition, the majority of polyester produced is used in poly-blends rather than 100% polyester fabric, and it is even more difficult to recycle poly-blends. Even a t-shirt made up of 99% cotton and 1% polyester would not be saved from landfill. However, companies such as Swedish forestry cooperative, Södra, are developing processes of separating polyester from cotton.

Recycled Polyester Sweater from Patagonia

Sustainable alternatives to polyester

Now we know why polyester is so bad for the environment, we can start to look for alternatives when we shop. Luckily there are plenty to choose from!

Repreve

REPREVE is a series of recycled fibers made by UNIFI, which include resin, nylon 6, and polyester. REPREVE Polyester is the leading branded performance fiber made from recycled materials, including plastic bottles. Compared to making what's called ‘virgin fiber’, making REPREVE doesn’t require the use of new petroleum, as well as emitting fewer greenhouse gases and conserving water and energy in the process. Over 35 billion plastic bottles have been recycled so far to make REPREVE fabric.

Recycled polyester is a more environmentally sustainable fibre than virgin polyester, but it is not without its problems. Each time plastic is reheated for recycling it degrades, so it cannot be recycled indefinitely. There are also other elements of the process that can be environmentally damaging such as the re-dyeing, the amount of water needed, and the high-temperatures required which can release carcinogenic antimony compounds into the atmosphere. So when you buy recycled polyester clothes, just know that they likely cannot be recycled again.

Natural materials are always great alternatives to polyester. Here are a few examples of alternatives to look out for…

Linen

Linen is a strong fiber derived from the flax plant, which when grown in its natural geographical zones, produces zero waste when harvested and turned into fabric. The flax plant has many other uses and can be turned into paper, oil and other bio-materials. Flax farming requires less water and pesticides to grow than conventional cotton, and if left un-dyed (or eco-dyed) can be totally biodegradable! However, you won’t need to throw it away as linen is known to last for hundreds of wears, making it the perfect fabric to include in your wardrobe.

Hemp

Hemp has been around for thousands of years, is produced on almost every continent in the world, and is one of the most sustainable fabrics you can buy today. It returns up to 70% of the nutrients it takes from the soil during cultivation, which is so important for soil biodiversity. Hemp requires very little water and can produce up to twice as much fiber per hectare as cotton. It also grows organically extremely well, eliminating the need for chemical pesticides and fertilizers. Hemp is biodegradable, breathable, renewable, and feels similar to linen to wear.

Organic Cotton

Organic cotton is the more sustainable version of conventional cotton. Most organic cotton is grown in rain-fed areas; this means farmers rely on rain to water their cotton instead of having to extract water from the ground, which can put pressure on water supplies in local communities. Organic cotton emits up to 46% less greenhouse gas than non-organic and requires 62% less energy to produce than conventional cotton. Another benefit of using organic cotton instead of polyester is that it is free from toxic chemicals used in pesticides and fertilizers, making it better for the environment and your skin!


Avoiding polyester is getting easier but is still not always an option for everyone. If you buy clothes made from polyester, just be sure to look after them, make them last as long as possible, and make sure to either upcycle or donate them if you decide you no longer want them. You can also use washing bags like the Guppyfriend that will catch the microfibers when you wash them, reducing the number of microplastics going out into the ocean!


About the Author

Sarah is a freelance writer with a focus on vegan fashion, sustainability and ethically made clothes. She campaigns for change in the fashion industry through her blog and on her Instagram page.


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What is Modal? & Is it Sustainable?
 

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What is modal?

Over recent years, as we’ve become more aware and interested in the fabrics that make our clothes, you may have noticed a lot of new types of materials being talked about. Especially within the sustainable fashion world where materials are constantly battling to be named the most sustainable. One such fabric that you may have heard about is modal, but what do we actually know about it? 

You may have spotted modal in your favourite activewear brand’s new collection, or even in the sheets and pillowcases of a bedding brand, and it has rapidly increased in popularity within sustainable brands. Known for its silky-smooth texture and being incredibly lightweight, modal has the versatility brands crave, and a sustainable accreditation to go with it only makes it more desirable. But it’s worth having a more in-depth look at modal to determine what the true sustainability factors are, and what is simply greenwashing.

When we’re deciding if an item of clothing is sustainable or not, we need to know what fabric it’s made of, what goes into making that fabric, and whether it’s been produced ethically. Being informed on the facts behind our fabrics helps us make better decisions when we shop, so let’s get to know modal a bit better!

The science behind the fabric

Modal was first developed in Japan in 1951 but was then produced by an Austrian company called Lenzing Fibers (now Lenzing) in 1964. The fabric belongs to the “rayon” family and is considered an upgrade to the fabric “viscose”. Originally, modal was developed in order to refine viscose by imitating the properties of cotton. Modal is known as a semi-natural fiber, as the original source it is made from is beech trees, but the process of turning the wood pulp into yarn requires chemicals. Because of this combination, modal fibers are also called “regenerated cellulosic” fibers.

The process of creating modal requires the harvesting of beech trees, which are then turned into small chips and then purified to extract their cellulose content. This cellulose is formed into sheets and immersed in vats of chemicals such as sodium hydroxide and carbon disulfide before being broken down again and forced through a ‘spinneret’ to create fibers. These fibers are then woven together to make the modal fabric, which can be used on its own or in a textile blend with other materials like cotton. 

In 1977, Lenzing invented a process of bleaching the wood pulp in a more environmentally friendly way. Today, Lenzing’s modal is made of wood pulp sourced from beech trees which are harvested in sustainable forests under the Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification schemes (PEFC). 

Where do you find modal? 

To this day, the largest producer of modal fabric worldwide is still Lenzing, which is based in Europe but has factories all over the world, with some of their biggest modal fabric factories being in China. A variety of other companies also make modal rayon, and most of these companies are based in China, which is why China is now the world’s largest exporter of modal. 

Originally, the fabric was used to create scarves as it was thought of as the perfect alternative to silk. Now modal is mostly used in underwear, nightwear, sportswear, t-shirts, and even bedding. In clothing modal is often used as an alternative to cotton or silk, as it has the same lightweight and breathable feel. Many sustainable brands have opted to use modal in their products as it’s also an eco-friendly alternative to viscose, and it can be marketed as a ‘plant-based material’. 

In terms of the benefits of using modal as a fabric for clothes, the list is pretty long. Modal is stretchy, soft, breathable, water absorbent, durable, drapes well, doesn’t pill, color fast, shrink-resistant, doesn't crease, and is biodegradable. It’s no wonder that sustainable fashion designers were keen to start using this fabric in their collections! 

You’ll often see that modal is blended with other fibers like cotton and spandex for added strength. Modal is considered a luxurious textile due to both its soft feel and high cost, as it is more expensive than either cotton or viscose. For this reason it is often favoured by more high-end designers, adding to the luxury appeal of their brand. 

Sustainable brands across the world have also adopted the use of sustainably-produced modals within their collections, such as Amour Vert, TAMGA Designs, and Whimsy and Row.

What makes modal unsustainable?

There has been confusion over whether or not modal could be classed as a sustainable material. At a basic level, modal is made from trees which would suggest that, if sourced from sustainably-managed forests, it would be an eco-friendly material. However, the chemicals and processes involved to turn the wood chips into fibers have caused people to question it’s sustainability accreditations.

Forests

The main raw material for producing modal is wood from beech and softwood trees. However, due to the rise in popularity of modal, we’ve seen an increase in unregulated production, which has added to the global issue of deforestation. In a report by Canopy Planet, several producers of modal were sourcing trees from ancient or endangered forests. The Rainforest Action Network even ran a global campaign called ‘Out of Fashion’ to pressure fashion brands away from their use of unsustainable modal, rayon and viscose.

As with any material created from trees, there needs to be external audits carried out and certifications awarded to suppliers and brands who are following the appropriate guidelines to ensure sustainability. It can be incredibly difficult to trace back materials to their original source, so transparent supply chains are also crucial in sustainable modal production.

Chemicals 

Another common objection to modal is the use of several chemicals involved in processing the fiber. Modal requires many toxic chemicals such as sodium hydroxide, sulfuric acid, and carbon disulfide. The latter is a well-known neurotoxin that can enter the water or air through the processing of modal if it’s not manufactured in a closed-loop process. This then affects wildlife, aquatic life and humans, who can experience critical medical problems ranging from liver damage, blindness and even death. 

Image: Amour Vert

Can modal be sustainable?

While there are unsustainable fiber producers, not all modal is created equal. Lenzing currently produces the most sustainable modal called TENCEL Modal®. They operate under a global certification system and have developed environmental processes for their modal, which are not currently commercially available to others. Lenzing’s technologies are less-toxic and have a high rate of recovery for process ingredients, meaning fewer chemicals end up being wasted. They also source their trees from PEFC or FSC accredited forests which have sustainably managed beech tree plantations. The environmental footprint of TENCEL Modal® is carbon-neutral, requires much less land per tonne than cotton fibers, and requires 10-20 times less water than cotton does. 

To be clear, Tencel is a brand name that produces certain types of modal and lyocell. Check out our guide to Tencel and some of our favorite brands that use it!

Micromodal is a more recent version of modal that is even more lightweight and soft, rivaling even the highest quality of silk. In addition, it is considered to be more environmentally friendly than modal as it is highly homogenous, with only one company currently producing micromodal. Micromodal also requires far lesser concentrations of caustic soda during the processing of the fiber. 

Sustainable modal production should encompass, at minimum, these main aspects:

  • Closed loop production. This means any chemical used once in the process is not discarded in the environment, and is instead reused. The only small amount that is discharged is also non-hazardous. Many rayon manufacturers have started to use “chemical scrubbers” or machines to trap the chemicals before they make their way into the ecosystem, further reducing harm. 

  • Sustainably-sourced wood. Sustainable modal should be made of wood pulp sourced from beech trees which are harvested in sustainable forests.

  • Low water consumption. Modal requires a surprisingly low consumption of water during its production. Compared to cotton, its water consumption is about 20 times less. This means the Modal’s carbon footprint is also much less than other fabrics. 

  • Biodegradable status. Although semi-synthetic, modal fiber is completely biodegradable. The production chemicals that are used are also biodegradable.

Sustainable alternatives to modal

If you can’t find TENCEL Modal®, there are other sustainable alternatives to look out for if you’re after something with a similar weight or feel to modal. 

TENCEL™ Lyocell is a more sustainable alternative to modal as it is a completely organic form of rayon. It is made using an organic solution that replaces the sodium hydroxide used in modal production. 

According to the ‘Environmental Benchmark for Fibres’ from materials experts Made-By, there are several materials that are classed as more sustainable than modal. These include organic hemp, organic linen, recycled wool and recycled cotton. Depending on these fabrics' thread count, they could be perfect alternatives to modal. 


About the Author:

Sarah King is a freelance writer with a focus on vegan fashion, sustainability and ethically made clothes. She campaigns for change in the fashion industry through her blog and on her Instagram page.


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